Harrodsburg - Bardstown
51 miles
4 hours and 2 minutes in the saddle
30.5 mph max speed
12.6 mph average speed
weather: thunder storms and we got soaked for the second day running
Our trip today was cut short today by bad weather yet again. When we were on the outskirts of Springfield a ferocious thunderstorm passed by and we decided that Bardstown would be a more suitable destination given the weather conditions than Lincoln's birth place national historic monument.
Springfield, which we passed through, was celebrating Kentucky Derby Day. All the school children were out in the streets dodging the showers while racing on their wooden play horses. We enjoyed the action from a cafe where the owner took pity on us because we were soaking wet. We were served steaming lattes and hot cinnamon pastries while we drip dried our clothes.
In the afternoon we pushed on to Bardstown, but diverted off the Adventure Cycling route to save miles and time. Bardstown is a historic town with palatial mansions. This evening we managed to just beat a major thunderstorm as we ran in to town for dinner. Kresos was worth making the dash for as the food was delicious.
Thursday, 10 May 2007
Thursday 3 May - cycling in the rain
Berea - Harrodsburg
60 miles
5 hours and 18 minutes in the wet saddle
31 mph max speed
11.3 mph average speed
Weather: torrential rain for the majority of the ride
Today we have had abysmal weather all day, it has been cloudy and rain, but thankfully no wind. Visibility has been limited so we have not been able to enjoy the scenery.
Today it has been much flatter and we have only had a few gentle hills. Rolling farmland for cows and horses grazing and lots of ranches. Braking in the wet is difficult and especially so when you are trying to spray a pack of dogs at the same time as manouvering down a steep hill. We are learning new cycling skills every day.
Harrodsburg is a pleasant small town with many grand houses.
Today we have coined a new expression: the Kentucky half-mile. It refers to any random distance of less than 10 miles. As we have been cycling across America we have learnt that most people here don't cycle or walk and their appreciation of distance is limited. When we visited Harrodsburg tourist information they advised us that our motel was merely half a mile out of town. 6 miles later we reached our motel for the night.
60 miles
5 hours and 18 minutes in the wet saddle
31 mph max speed
11.3 mph average speed
Weather: torrential rain for the majority of the ride
Today we have had abysmal weather all day, it has been cloudy and rain, but thankfully no wind. Visibility has been limited so we have not been able to enjoy the scenery.
Today it has been much flatter and we have only had a few gentle hills. Rolling farmland for cows and horses grazing and lots of ranches. Braking in the wet is difficult and especially so when you are trying to spray a pack of dogs at the same time as manouvering down a steep hill. We are learning new cycling skills every day.
Harrodsburg is a pleasant small town with many grand houses.
Today we have coined a new expression: the Kentucky half-mile. It refers to any random distance of less than 10 miles. As we have been cycling across America we have learnt that most people here don't cycle or walk and their appreciation of distance is limited. When we visited Harrodsburg tourist information they advised us that our motel was merely half a mile out of town. 6 miles later we reached our motel for the night.
Wednesday 2 May - Berea restday
Berea
4 miles cycled around town
We spent the day relaxing and also sent some surplus clothing home. We did a little bike maintenance and everything seems ok. We managed to get hold of Undaunted Courage.
Had a nice lunch and supper at the Main Street cafe owned by Sune who has emigrated from Denmark.
Today we have had cool weather, it has been overcast and late this afternoon a thunderstorm came through.
We were in need of a rest.
4 miles cycled around town
We spent the day relaxing and also sent some surplus clothing home. We did a little bike maintenance and everything seems ok. We managed to get hold of Undaunted Courage.
Had a nice lunch and supper at the Main Street cafe owned by Sune who has emigrated from Denmark.
Today we have had cool weather, it has been overcast and late this afternoon a thunderstorm came through.
We were in need of a rest.
Tuesday 1 May - Dog in my spoke
Booneville - Berea
48 miles
4 hours and 10 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
weather: another gloriously hot and sunny day
Today has been our worst dog day since starting this trip. We have used the pepper spray lots and we have also seen dog roadkill for the first time. A dog that had been hit by a car had just been left to rot by the side of the road right in front of a house. It seems that dogs are not kept as pets here, but rather something that you have because all of your neighbours have dogs.
Today we left early to beat the heat of the day. Alan and Deborah managed to convince Stephen that it is worth starting early on hot days. Stephen now believes that this is not a holiday, but pure punishment for earlier sins. Mette is still having a good time. Although, Stephen admits that it was very nice to arrive in Berea for 12.30, in time for a frappucino at a local coffee shop.
Tomorrow is our first rest day and we are looking forward to it after 13 consecutive days of cycling. We have done 828 miles since starting this trip and our average mileage is around 60 miles per day.
The landscape has gradually been changing, the hills are lower and less intimidating. Berea is on a plain and we had a great view of the town and surrounding area as we descended Big Hill mountain (what a great name!). The soil must be good because farming is more important here. We are impressed by the well tended vegetable patches that pride every property in this area.
We met with Alan and Deborah for dinner at the local Italian restaurant for a bit of carbo refuelling. Alan has reiterated Kristy's recommendation to read Undaunted Courage and tomorrow we will see if we can get it from one of the local bookshops.
48 miles
4 hours and 10 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
weather: another gloriously hot and sunny day
Today has been our worst dog day since starting this trip. We have used the pepper spray lots and we have also seen dog roadkill for the first time. A dog that had been hit by a car had just been left to rot by the side of the road right in front of a house. It seems that dogs are not kept as pets here, but rather something that you have because all of your neighbours have dogs.
Today we left early to beat the heat of the day. Alan and Deborah managed to convince Stephen that it is worth starting early on hot days. Stephen now believes that this is not a holiday, but pure punishment for earlier sins. Mette is still having a good time. Although, Stephen admits that it was very nice to arrive in Berea for 12.30, in time for a frappucino at a local coffee shop.
Tomorrow is our first rest day and we are looking forward to it after 13 consecutive days of cycling. We have done 828 miles since starting this trip and our average mileage is around 60 miles per day.
The landscape has gradually been changing, the hills are lower and less intimidating. Berea is on a plain and we had a great view of the town and surrounding area as we descended Big Hill mountain (what a great name!). The soil must be good because farming is more important here. We are impressed by the well tended vegetable patches that pride every property in this area.
We met with Alan and Deborah for dinner at the local Italian restaurant for a bit of carbo refuelling. Alan has reiterated Kristy's recommendation to read Undaunted Courage and tomorrow we will see if we can get it from one of the local bookshops.
Monday 30 April - In searh of pepper spray
Pippa Passes - Booneville
75 miles
7 hours and 4 minutes in the saddle
33.5 mph max speed
10.5 mph average speed
weather: sunny and very hot - Mette's bike computer read 110F on a hill!
Today has been another long and tough ride through Kentucky's coal mining country. On one stretch of road we were sharing the road with enormous coal mining trucks. The draft caused by the trucks pulled us along, even up the hills, it was uncomfortable and sometimes a bit scary. It was also very dusty.
As we have been travelling further west the hills have become smaller, but they are still quite steep making it hard work to climb. There are fewer strip mines and we have seen more arable farming, more horses and less abject poverty as we move away from areas that rely on coal mining. We have still seen a lot of poverty because we have cycled through the second poorest county in the US.
Spring has sprung and now we are seeing lush green trees and rhododendrons that are pink with flowers. It is beautiful countryside that is scarred by strip mining. In some places we see only the remains of what in the past must have been big hills. Litter is still a problem. Outside one trailer home it looked like they had thrown all the cans of drink that they had drunk in the past 20 years out the window. It looked awful. Litter seems to be something that is accepted as part of the culture in this area, or it could be that these are communities of hoarders that hang onto everything that they have ever bought including any packaging.
When we entered Booneville we spoke with lots of friendly people who were all amazed at our long bike ride. We were also asked to speak in English and Norwegian to a little boy who had never heard anything other than American. We really have some unexpected experiences on this trip.
Tonight we are staying at Linda's Victorian Rose B&B which is in an old converted church. Linda is very hospitable, looking after our every need including washing our very smelly cycling clothes. We are here with Alan and Debbie who are fellow TransAm cyclists. It is great to spend some time with other people who are doing the same trip. It has been great news for Stephen who lost his pepper spray during today's ride since Alan had a spare canister of Halt! pepper spray. All four of us are planning a rest day in Berea tomorrow and we have arranged to meet with Deborah and Alan for dinner.
75 miles
7 hours and 4 minutes in the saddle
33.5 mph max speed
10.5 mph average speed
weather: sunny and very hot - Mette's bike computer read 110F on a hill!
Today has been another long and tough ride through Kentucky's coal mining country. On one stretch of road we were sharing the road with enormous coal mining trucks. The draft caused by the trucks pulled us along, even up the hills, it was uncomfortable and sometimes a bit scary. It was also very dusty.
As we have been travelling further west the hills have become smaller, but they are still quite steep making it hard work to climb. There are fewer strip mines and we have seen more arable farming, more horses and less abject poverty as we move away from areas that rely on coal mining. We have still seen a lot of poverty because we have cycled through the second poorest county in the US.
Spring has sprung and now we are seeing lush green trees and rhododendrons that are pink with flowers. It is beautiful countryside that is scarred by strip mining. In some places we see only the remains of what in the past must have been big hills. Litter is still a problem. Outside one trailer home it looked like they had thrown all the cans of drink that they had drunk in the past 20 years out the window. It looked awful. Litter seems to be something that is accepted as part of the culture in this area, or it could be that these are communities of hoarders that hang onto everything that they have ever bought including any packaging.
When we entered Booneville we spoke with lots of friendly people who were all amazed at our long bike ride. We were also asked to speak in English and Norwegian to a little boy who had never heard anything other than American. We really have some unexpected experiences on this trip.
Tonight we are staying at Linda's Victorian Rose B&B which is in an old converted church. Linda is very hospitable, looking after our every need including washing our very smelly cycling clothes. We are here with Alan and Debbie who are fellow TransAm cyclists. It is great to spend some time with other people who are doing the same trip. It has been great news for Stephen who lost his pepper spray during today's ride since Alan had a spare canister of Halt! pepper spray. All four of us are planning a rest day in Berea tomorrow and we have arranged to meet with Deborah and Alan for dinner.
Sunday 29 April - Hello Kentucky!
Breaks to Pippa Passes
61 miles
5 hours and 29 minutes in the saddle
35.1 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
weather: usual hot and sunny and westerly (head)winds
This morning we enjoyed breakfast and spectacular views across Breaks canyon veiled in early morning mist.
Two words can sum up today's ride: hills and dogs. We have entered Kentucky and as expected there are more dogs here than in Virginia. There are not many stray dogs, but leash laws are not enforced. Consequently, owners leave their dogs to roam around their property and to chase unsuspecting cyclists down the road or up the hill, as the case may be. Today we used our pepper spray for the first time. Unfortunately Stephen was downwind and we know for a fact that pepper spray works well on humans and husbands in particular.
The hills in Kentucky are no less steep than those in Virginia. A pickup truck driver took pity on us today as we were labouring up a steep and winding hill. He offered to take us and our bikes on the back of his truck. We accepted without hesitation. The lift saved us lots of time and energy.
Today we have been cycling through coal mining country. Coal mining companies used to own the land, the houses that workers lived in and even the schools. When the mines needed fewer people to work for them either because automation or decline in business it left entire communities devastated. We have seen a lot of poverty today and it makes us feel conscious of how fortunate we are.
The mountain scenery is spectacular.
Tonight we are staying at Pippa Passes bike hostel that was used for the original TransAm bike ride in 1976. It redefines the word basic and we are convinced that some of the dust in our dorm is original 1976 dust. Yuck! We have been sharing the dorm with a couple of dutch cyclists who are doing the TransAm route to Kansas before they head back to the Netherlands.
61 miles
5 hours and 29 minutes in the saddle
35.1 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
weather: usual hot and sunny and westerly (head)winds
This morning we enjoyed breakfast and spectacular views across Breaks canyon veiled in early morning mist.
Two words can sum up today's ride: hills and dogs. We have entered Kentucky and as expected there are more dogs here than in Virginia. There are not many stray dogs, but leash laws are not enforced. Consequently, owners leave their dogs to roam around their property and to chase unsuspecting cyclists down the road or up the hill, as the case may be. Today we used our pepper spray for the first time. Unfortunately Stephen was downwind and we know for a fact that pepper spray works well on humans and husbands in particular.
The hills in Kentucky are no less steep than those in Virginia. A pickup truck driver took pity on us today as we were labouring up a steep and winding hill. He offered to take us and our bikes on the back of his truck. We accepted without hesitation. The lift saved us lots of time and energy.
Today we have been cycling through coal mining country. Coal mining companies used to own the land, the houses that workers lived in and even the schools. When the mines needed fewer people to work for them either because automation or decline in business it left entire communities devastated. We have seen a lot of poverty today and it makes us feel conscious of how fortunate we are.
The mountain scenery is spectacular.
Tonight we are staying at Pippa Passes bike hostel that was used for the original TransAm bike ride in 1976. It redefines the word basic and we are convinced that some of the dust in our dorm is original 1976 dust. Yuck! We have been sharing the dorm with a couple of dutch cyclists who are doing the TransAm route to Kansas before they head back to the Netherlands.
Saturday 28 April - leaving Virginia
Damascus - Breaks Interstate Park
78 miles
7 hours and 5 minutes in the saddle
38 mph max speed - new speed record
10.9 mph average speed
weather: cool and overcast, great cycling weather
Todays ride has been long and tough. We did a 3.7 mile climb to Hayters Gap, we thought the hill would never end. For every uphill is a downhill, and the one after Hayters Gap was great.
Today we have seen some new birds. They have been bright yellow with small patches of black. We have also seen a bright red wood pecker (it might be some other type of bird, our ornithology knowledge leaves a lot to be desired).
Tonight we are staying at Breaks Interstate Park. It is a fantastic location, with views across what is the largest canyon east of the Mississippi. The canyon is 5 miles long and 1600 feet deep.
78 miles
7 hours and 5 minutes in the saddle
38 mph max speed - new speed record
10.9 mph average speed
weather: cool and overcast, great cycling weather
Todays ride has been long and tough. We did a 3.7 mile climb to Hayters Gap, we thought the hill would never end. For every uphill is a downhill, and the one after Hayters Gap was great.
Today we have seen some new birds. They have been bright yellow with small patches of black. We have also seen a bright red wood pecker (it might be some other type of bird, our ornithology knowledge leaves a lot to be desired).
Tonight we are staying at Breaks Interstate Park. It is a fantastic location, with views across what is the largest canyon east of the Mississippi. The canyon is 5 miles long and 1600 feet deep.
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