Ordway - Pueblo, Kansas
54 miles
4 hours and 13 minutes in the saddle
25.4 mph max speed
12.7 mph average speed
Today we started our ride by catching our first glimpse of the Rockies in the far distance. In 2 days we will be climbing up to 11,400' to cross over the Hoosier Pass. It seems almost unreal that we will be doing such a big climb after having spent the last week cycling on flat lands of Kansas.
Today we have had a short ride since our legs were feeling tired from yesterday's long ride. We try to keep moving, rather than taking rest days.
Pueblo is a city of 102,000 people and it is good to re-join civilisation after so many days in the middle of nowhere. Yesterday some tumble weed blew across the road and almost got caught in Mette's wheel. It really was just like one of those old western's where you expect some cowboy to come riding over the hill.
Monday 28 May 2007
Sunday 27 May - Testing our limits
Tribune - Ordway, Colorado
121 miles (we are mad, and we will not go this far in one day again)
9 hours and 8 painful minutes in the saddle
13.1 mph average speed
21.6 mph max speed
Today we entered Colorado and boy was it flat. The biggest difference was that wildflowers started re-appearing along the verges. It seems that pesticides are not used quite so much here as in Kansas, which is nice. We have seen flowering Yuccas, black eyed suzans and lots of other blue, pink, purple and yellow flowers. It is spectacular. Arable land has been replaced with prairie land grazed by cattle and also by pronghorn deer.
We cycled 60 miles to Eads by noon took one look at the dingy EconoLodge motel and crummy restaurant and decided without debate to push on. The next 60 miles were tough, with poor road surface and strong side and head wind. A punishing day, is this really a holiday?
We were both shattered when we arrived in Ordway, where we are staying at a cheap, but very friendly hotel. Our reward at the end of 121 miles of cycling? Jam sandwiches in our room and tinned peaches. At least it wasn't a fried dinner. We slept very well.
121 miles (we are mad, and we will not go this far in one day again)
9 hours and 8 painful minutes in the saddle
13.1 mph average speed
21.6 mph max speed
Today we entered Colorado and boy was it flat. The biggest difference was that wildflowers started re-appearing along the verges. It seems that pesticides are not used quite so much here as in Kansas, which is nice. We have seen flowering Yuccas, black eyed suzans and lots of other blue, pink, purple and yellow flowers. It is spectacular. Arable land has been replaced with prairie land grazed by cattle and also by pronghorn deer.
We cycled 60 miles to Eads by noon took one look at the dingy EconoLodge motel and crummy restaurant and decided without debate to push on. The next 60 miles were tough, with poor road surface and strong side and head wind. A punishing day, is this really a holiday?
We were both shattered when we arrived in Ordway, where we are staying at a cheap, but very friendly hotel. Our reward at the end of 121 miles of cycling? Jam sandwiches in our room and tinned peaches. At least it wasn't a fried dinner. We slept very well.
Saturday 26 May - Breakfast, but not as we know it
Dighton - Tribune, Kansas
73 miles
5 hours and 11 minutes in the saddle
19.9 mph max speed
14.1 mph average speed
Another very flat day of cycling, which is evident from the little difference between average speed and max speed. This morning we left our dingy hotel in Dighton after enjoying a breakfast of Fig Newtons and oat and raisin cookies. Not healthy, but at least it was a bit of energy to get us started. We headed for Scott City, knowing that we could get a more substantial breakfast at the local greasy spoon. We were not wrong. Enjoying omelette, hash browns, toast and the largest cinnamon roll the world has ever seen. We stuffed our faces.
In Scott City we met a local cyclist who told us he was mainly into mountain biking. Mountain biking in Kansas??? He thought we were "animals" to have done 25 miles by 9am.
Since leaving Great Bend we have been climbing steadily, although the roads feel completely flat we have gained almost 3000' in elevation. We are now almost as high up as we were in the Appalachians, but with a lot less effort. Today we have crossed into Mountain Time and have gained an hour. Very satisfying.
Tonight we are staying in a great little house in Tribune. We have rented the whole house for $35! It is just so cheap. Tonight we are cooking our own meal for the first time since leaving the UK. We are really excited about doing some normal things like making a cup of tea!
73 miles
5 hours and 11 minutes in the saddle
19.9 mph max speed
14.1 mph average speed
Another very flat day of cycling, which is evident from the little difference between average speed and max speed. This morning we left our dingy hotel in Dighton after enjoying a breakfast of Fig Newtons and oat and raisin cookies. Not healthy, but at least it was a bit of energy to get us started. We headed for Scott City, knowing that we could get a more substantial breakfast at the local greasy spoon. We were not wrong. Enjoying omelette, hash browns, toast and the largest cinnamon roll the world has ever seen. We stuffed our faces.
In Scott City we met a local cyclist who told us he was mainly into mountain biking. Mountain biking in Kansas??? He thought we were "animals" to have done 25 miles by 9am.
Since leaving Great Bend we have been climbing steadily, although the roads feel completely flat we have gained almost 3000' in elevation. We are now almost as high up as we were in the Appalachians, but with a lot less effort. Today we have crossed into Mountain Time and have gained an hour. Very satisfying.
Tonight we are staying in a great little house in Tribune. We have rented the whole house for $35! It is just so cheap. Tonight we are cooking our own meal for the first time since leaving the UK. We are really excited about doing some normal things like making a cup of tea!
Friday 25 May - Cycling fast in Kansas
Great Bend - Dighton
96 miles
6 hours and 13 minutes in the saddle
26.7 mph max speed
15.3 mph average speed
Today we have hit a new record for average speed, for a long time our average was above 16mph, but we started slacking when the wind turned from SE to SW and in the afternoon we usually cycle slower than in the morning.
Kansas is flat and vast, but today it has seemed even flatter and more vast than on previous days. Corn fields seem to go on forever. We could see a water tower almost 15 miles ahead, and an hour later we finally cycled past it only to see another water tower 15 or 20 miles ahead. This is monotonous country. Corn fields, water towers, corn silos and not much else, cycling is very peaceful around here.
Tonight we met Gary, a 62 year old American living in France, who is doing the Western Express/ TransAm cycle route from west to east. He was full of stories and it was pleasant to meet another cyclist. We also overtook a cyclist today doing the TransAm from east to west.
96 miles
6 hours and 13 minutes in the saddle
26.7 mph max speed
15.3 mph average speed
Today we have hit a new record for average speed, for a long time our average was above 16mph, but we started slacking when the wind turned from SE to SW and in the afternoon we usually cycle slower than in the morning.
Kansas is flat and vast, but today it has seemed even flatter and more vast than on previous days. Corn fields seem to go on forever. We could see a water tower almost 15 miles ahead, and an hour later we finally cycled past it only to see another water tower 15 or 20 miles ahead. This is monotonous country. Corn fields, water towers, corn silos and not much else, cycling is very peaceful around here.
Tonight we met Gary, a 62 year old American living in France, who is doing the Western Express/ TransAm cycle route from west to east. He was full of stories and it was pleasant to meet another cyclist. We also overtook a cyclist today doing the TransAm from east to west.
24 May - Drying up after the deluge
Hutchinson - Great Bend, Kansas
66 miles
5 hours and 32 minutes in the saddle
19.9 mph max speed
11.9 mph average speed
Last night 7.1" of rain fell in Hutchinson and the flooding was so severe it made the news on CNN! Our hotel was full as people had been forced to abandon their cars by the road and needed shelter for the night. Thankfully the storm cleared overnight, but not before a leak developed in our room.
Only one stretch of road had flooded that we had to cycle through, but we saw lots of flooded fields and small creeks that had been transformed into fast flowing rivers. As usual birdsong accompanied our ride through the vast, flat fields of Kansas. Today we heard thousands of joyous croaking frogs adding their voice to natures choir.
66 miles
5 hours and 32 minutes in the saddle
19.9 mph max speed
11.9 mph average speed
Last night 7.1" of rain fell in Hutchinson and the flooding was so severe it made the news on CNN! Our hotel was full as people had been forced to abandon their cars by the road and needed shelter for the night. Thankfully the storm cleared overnight, but not before a leak developed in our room.
Only one stretch of road had flooded that we had to cycle through, but we saw lots of flooded fields and small creeks that had been transformed into fast flowing rivers. As usual birdsong accompanied our ride through the vast, flat fields of Kansas. Today we heard thousands of joyous croaking frogs adding their voice to natures choir.
Wednesday 23 May 2007
Wednesday 23 May - Dodging the storms in Kansas
Newton - Hutchinson
45 miles
3 hours and 32 minutes in the saddle
21.9 mph max speed
12.8 mph average speed
We were hoping to reach Sterling which is a little further west than Hutchinson today, but the weather forecast was for severe thunder storms. As the clouds blackened as we headed west we decided that it would be best to aim for Hutchinson which is a big city and that would have plenty of accommodation options. Little did we know about the "West Conference", which had booked up virtually every room in town. We managed to get to the local bike shop just as the heavens opened and hailed thimble sized hail stones. We spent the next hour or so "browsing", a euphemism for staying dry.
After an hour of browsing we were getting very bored and decided to make a dash for the library. We cycled 2 blocks and discovered that our coats are not suited for Kansas rain deluges.
We have got a room in Hutchinson for the night at the Econo Lodge - it is econo in every way, including the price which we appreciate.
45 miles
3 hours and 32 minutes in the saddle
21.9 mph max speed
12.8 mph average speed
We were hoping to reach Sterling which is a little further west than Hutchinson today, but the weather forecast was for severe thunder storms. As the clouds blackened as we headed west we decided that it would be best to aim for Hutchinson which is a big city and that would have plenty of accommodation options. Little did we know about the "West Conference", which had booked up virtually every room in town. We managed to get to the local bike shop just as the heavens opened and hailed thimble sized hail stones. We spent the next hour or so "browsing", a euphemism for staying dry.
After an hour of browsing we were getting very bored and decided to make a dash for the library. We cycled 2 blocks and discovered that our coats are not suited for Kansas rain deluges.
We have got a room in Hutchinson for the night at the Econo Lodge - it is econo in every way, including the price which we appreciate.
Sunday - Tuesday 20-22 May - Catching up with friends
No cycling!
We have had 3 lovely, relaxing days with Michelle and Michael, Doodle and Dakota in Dallas. We visited Dallas Arboretum and spent some quality time on the computer and tested Michelle's washing machine's permanent dirt removing capabilities. We had some great home cooked food and also went out for a delicious Cajun crawfish experience. It was soooo nice to be in a house for a few nights and not in a hotel! We took the opportunity to visit a bike shop and made a few tweaks to our bike. Mette replaced her saddle which was taped together with duck tape. It felt like a risky decision to buy a new saddle halfway through the trip, but the old one would have fallen to pieces long before Oregon. I hope I won't get saddle sore. We were sad to leave Dallas.
On the way back to Newton we visited Bob and family at home in Wichita, and got to see InfoTrends' Kansas office. The Kansas office is just about the nicest InfoTrends office, it is very homely, has lots of space and fantastic views over a lake.
We got back to Newton just in time to drop off the car and cycle a few miles to our hotel before it got dark.
We have had 3 lovely, relaxing days with Michelle and Michael, Doodle and Dakota in Dallas. We visited Dallas Arboretum and spent some quality time on the computer and tested Michelle's washing machine's permanent dirt removing capabilities. We had some great home cooked food and also went out for a delicious Cajun crawfish experience. It was soooo nice to be in a house for a few nights and not in a hotel! We took the opportunity to visit a bike shop and made a few tweaks to our bike. Mette replaced her saddle which was taped together with duck tape. It felt like a risky decision to buy a new saddle halfway through the trip, but the old one would have fallen to pieces long before Oregon. I hope I won't get saddle sore. We were sad to leave Dallas.
On the way back to Newton we visited Bob and family at home in Wichita, and got to see InfoTrends' Kansas office. The Kansas office is just about the nicest InfoTrends office, it is very homely, has lots of space and fantastic views over a lake.
We got back to Newton just in time to drop off the car and cycle a few miles to our hotel before it got dark.
Saturday 19 May - Travelling at the speed of a car!
El Dorado - Newton
44 miles
3 hours and 42 minutes in the saddle
21.4 mph max speed
11.7 mph average speed
We left El Dorado heading north on a smooth, very flat Kansas road with strong tail winds. Our average speed was around 17 mph. It was great cycling! After about 20 miles of cycling bliss we turned west and hit strong winds and a bumpy road. It slowed us down to what seemed like walking pace.
Before leaving El Dorado we had arranged to hire a car for 3 days, that we would pick up from Newton Airport. We reached Newton Airport which seemed to be located in a field. The waiting area had 8 seats, two of which were occupied by the resident airport cats.
We got our dirty bikes into the car (which had cream interior!) and left only one permanent chain mark in the back. It was good to leave a TransAm tattoo on the car, similar to the ones that we seem to have most days on our calves. Especially Mette is a pro at greasy chain tattoos. We headed south with Dallas as our destination. After 4 hours of driving on the wrong side of the road (according to Stephen) we hit Norman, just south of Oklahoma City and stopped for the night.
It was strange being in a big city after spending most of our time so far in small town America.
44 miles
3 hours and 42 minutes in the saddle
21.4 mph max speed
11.7 mph average speed
We left El Dorado heading north on a smooth, very flat Kansas road with strong tail winds. Our average speed was around 17 mph. It was great cycling! After about 20 miles of cycling bliss we turned west and hit strong winds and a bumpy road. It slowed us down to what seemed like walking pace.
Before leaving El Dorado we had arranged to hire a car for 3 days, that we would pick up from Newton Airport. We reached Newton Airport which seemed to be located in a field. The waiting area had 8 seats, two of which were occupied by the resident airport cats.
We got our dirty bikes into the car (which had cream interior!) and left only one permanent chain mark in the back. It was good to leave a TransAm tattoo on the car, similar to the ones that we seem to have most days on our calves. Especially Mette is a pro at greasy chain tattoos. We headed south with Dallas as our destination. After 4 hours of driving on the wrong side of the road (according to Stephen) we hit Norman, just south of Oklahoma City and stopped for the night.
It was strange being in a big city after spending most of our time so far in small town America.
Saturday 19 May 2007
Friday 18 May - Hills Kansas style
Chanute - El Dorado
98 miles
7 hours and 11 minutes in the saddle
31.8 mph max speed (not possible unless there were some slight hills)
13.6 mph average speed
We have come off the AC route in order to stay in a decent hotel and also to shorten our ride to Newton. The alternative was to stay in Eureka, but the hotels did not look nice so we decided to move on. We stopped for some lunch at a supermarket in Eureka and while we were eating our food in the car park a local on a bike stopped for a chat. He told us he was a carpenter and that he enjoyed riding a bike. He asked us the questions we have become accustomed to: Where are we from, where are we going to, how long will it take and are we crazy. We explained to him that we're from England and that we had taken our bikes on the plane. He was completely overawed when he realized that we had actually been on a plane. Before we left Eureka he warned us about the big hills west of town. We thanked him for his advice on riding conditions and thought to ourselves "What hills? We're in Kansas..." He was referring to the Flint Hills, which are Kansas style hills. They are quite short and are more like humps than hills (and are probably imperceptible if you are in a car). Still, they were steep enough to slow down our average speed and force us to change down our gears.
Weather conditions continue to be favourable, cool temperatures, sunny and SSE winds that push us along.
98 miles
7 hours and 11 minutes in the saddle
31.8 mph max speed (not possible unless there were some slight hills)
13.6 mph average speed
We have come off the AC route in order to stay in a decent hotel and also to shorten our ride to Newton. The alternative was to stay in Eureka, but the hotels did not look nice so we decided to move on. We stopped for some lunch at a supermarket in Eureka and while we were eating our food in the car park a local on a bike stopped for a chat. He told us he was a carpenter and that he enjoyed riding a bike. He asked us the questions we have become accustomed to: Where are we from, where are we going to, how long will it take and are we crazy. We explained to him that we're from England and that we had taken our bikes on the plane. He was completely overawed when he realized that we had actually been on a plane. Before we left Eureka he warned us about the big hills west of town. We thanked him for his advice on riding conditions and thought to ourselves "What hills? We're in Kansas..." He was referring to the Flint Hills, which are Kansas style hills. They are quite short and are more like humps than hills (and are probably imperceptible if you are in a car). Still, they were steep enough to slow down our average speed and force us to change down our gears.
Weather conditions continue to be favourable, cool temperatures, sunny and SSE winds that push us along.
Thursday 17 May 2007
Thursday 17 May - Kansas is not completely flat, but almost
Pitsburg - Chanute
67 miles
4 hours and 48 minutes in the saddle
25.9 mph max speed
13.9 mph average speed
For a split second this morning we contemplated doing 120 miles today. Weather was favourable, cool with NNE winds, which is almost tailwinds for us. We changed our minds once we got on our bikes and felt that our muscles and bottoms were pretty sore from yesterday's ride.
Today's ride has been very pleasant, flat roads as far as the eye can see. Fields go on for ever and the roads seem to merge with the sky at the horizon. Today a pilot in a plane waved at us as he swooped down to spray a field. The fields here are so big that planes are used as an agricultural tool.
Tonight we are spending yet another night in a Super 8 motel. It is clean, cheap and convenient. We think we will get our supper from Walmart rather than the local Mexican. Neither of us can face another Burrito.
67 miles
4 hours and 48 minutes in the saddle
25.9 mph max speed
13.9 mph average speed
For a split second this morning we contemplated doing 120 miles today. Weather was favourable, cool with NNE winds, which is almost tailwinds for us. We changed our minds once we got on our bikes and felt that our muscles and bottoms were pretty sore from yesterday's ride.
Today's ride has been very pleasant, flat roads as far as the eye can see. Fields go on for ever and the roads seem to merge with the sky at the horizon. Today a pilot in a plane waved at us as he swooped down to spray a field. The fields here are so big that planes are used as an agricultural tool.
Tonight we are spending yet another night in a Super 8 motel. It is clean, cheap and convenient. We think we will get our supper from Walmart rather than the local Mexican. Neither of us can face another Burrito.
Wednesday 16 May - century ride, hello Kansas!
Marshfield - Pitsburg
109 miles
8 hours and 19 minutes in the saddle
37.9 mph max speed
13.0 mph average speed
Today we left the Ozarks and climbed our last hill till we reach the Rockies in at least another 1000 miles. The Ozarks were beautiful, but we are glad they are behind us. Today we also broke the 100 mile threshold and crossed the state line into Kansas. Lots of achievements in one day, unsurprisingly we are tired. We have also been out for our 3rd Mexican dinner in a row. We are starved of fresh fruit and vegetables, it would be soooo nice to have a Thai or a Chinese meal. Maybe tomorrow???
109 miles
8 hours and 19 minutes in the saddle
37.9 mph max speed
13.0 mph average speed
Today we left the Ozarks and climbed our last hill till we reach the Rockies in at least another 1000 miles. The Ozarks were beautiful, but we are glad they are behind us. Today we also broke the 100 mile threshold and crossed the state line into Kansas. Lots of achievements in one day, unsurprisingly we are tired. We have also been out for our 3rd Mexican dinner in a row. We are starved of fresh fruit and vegetables, it would be soooo nice to have a Thai or a Chinese meal. Maybe tomorrow???
Tuesday 15 May 2007
Tuesday 15 May - Racing into the storm
Houston - Marshfield, MO
69 miles
5 hours and 16 minutes in the saddle
38.4 mph max speed
13.1 mph average speed
We left Houston in glorious sunshine early this morning. The Weather Channel, our favorite channel (we are addicted - ask Mette for the forecast in your area!) had given us information that suggested severe thunderstorms were on their way. Following our Illinois experience we know that cycling through thunderstorms is not a good idea. Our intention was to reach Marshfield around midday and thereby beat the storm.
The incentive of not getting wet or struck by lightning worked to keep up our speed in spite of 15 mph headwinds. 10 miles out of Marshfield the storms hit us and we saught shelter at a church along the road. It was not open, but at least it had a porch which sheltered us from the driving rain. After about 45 minutes of waiting the weather seemed to clear and we decided to make a dash for Marshfield. We had to abort the attempt when more stormy clouds gathered right over our head. We raced back to the church watching angry, black clouds in our rearview mirror. We spent another hour waiting at the church for the weather to clear. Finally, the rain and thunderstorms cleared enough for us to cycle to Marshfield without getting wet.
When we arrived in town we found out that a tornado had passed by us, about 3 miles away. We are very happy not to have seen it. We hope we will not see any tornadoes in Missouri, Kansas or anywhere else along the way.
69 miles
5 hours and 16 minutes in the saddle
38.4 mph max speed
13.1 mph average speed
We left Houston in glorious sunshine early this morning. The Weather Channel, our favorite channel (we are addicted - ask Mette for the forecast in your area!) had given us information that suggested severe thunderstorms were on their way. Following our Illinois experience we know that cycling through thunderstorms is not a good idea. Our intention was to reach Marshfield around midday and thereby beat the storm.
The incentive of not getting wet or struck by lightning worked to keep up our speed in spite of 15 mph headwinds. 10 miles out of Marshfield the storms hit us and we saught shelter at a church along the road. It was not open, but at least it had a porch which sheltered us from the driving rain. After about 45 minutes of waiting the weather seemed to clear and we decided to make a dash for Marshfield. We had to abort the attempt when more stormy clouds gathered right over our head. We raced back to the church watching angry, black clouds in our rearview mirror. We spent another hour waiting at the church for the weather to clear. Finally, the rain and thunderstorms cleared enough for us to cycle to Marshfield without getting wet.
When we arrived in town we found out that a tornado had passed by us, about 3 miles away. We are very happy not to have seen it. We hope we will not see any tornadoes in Missouri, Kansas or anywhere else along the way.
Monday 14 May - breaking the speed barrier
Ellington - Houston in Texas County, Missouri (!)
71 miles
5 hours and 59 minutes in the saddle
43.1 mph max speed - we broke the 40 mph mark!
11.8 mph average speed
Today we continued our ride through the Ozarks, and the roller coaster experience was even more evident today. We achieved a new max speed today, breaking the 40 mph threshold on one descent. Glorious fun! Some of the hills have been fantastically steep, but with little traffic it has been possible to "tuck in and let rip".
This morning we met two, young English guys who are riding west to east on their mountain bikes which were packed up with camping paraphernalia. They admitted hating camping. Oh, did we feel smug at that point. They have been cycling several 100 mile days in Kansas, so if the winds are with us we can also look forward to that. Breaking a "century" as it is called.
We continue to be charmed by Missouri and the Ozarks, with more lush green, rolling farmland, colourful roadside flowers and mineral green rivers. We could not ask for more scenic cycling.
71 miles
5 hours and 59 minutes in the saddle
43.1 mph max speed - we broke the 40 mph mark!
11.8 mph average speed
Today we continued our ride through the Ozarks, and the roller coaster experience was even more evident today. We achieved a new max speed today, breaking the 40 mph threshold on one descent. Glorious fun! Some of the hills have been fantastically steep, but with little traffic it has been possible to "tuck in and let rip".
This morning we met two, young English guys who are riding west to east on their mountain bikes which were packed up with camping paraphernalia. They admitted hating camping. Oh, did we feel smug at that point. They have been cycling several 100 mile days in Kansas, so if the winds are with us we can also look forward to that. Breaking a "century" as it is called.
We continue to be charmed by Missouri and the Ozarks, with more lush green, rolling farmland, colourful roadside flowers and mineral green rivers. We could not ask for more scenic cycling.
Sunday 13 May - These hills are so easy!
Farmington - Ellington
65 miles
4 hours and 15 minutes in the saddle
37 mph max speed
13.3 mph average speed
We are now officially in the Ozarks, hill climbing all day. We had dreaded these hills, but in fact it is a lot easier than the Appalachians which were both steep and long. Or perhaps, we are just a lot fitter after 23 days of cycling :)
We have had yet another glorious day for cycling, it has been hot and sunny. Missouri is a state criss crossed with rivers and streams. It makes for lots of green fields and blossoming wildflowers along the roads. It really is very pretty in Missouri.
This morning we cycled through St Joe's State Park, on the outskirts of Farmington. It is off the AC route, but was strongly recommended to us by a triathlete we met along the way. It was an excellent diversion since it took us on a bike path right through the forest. Along the way we had our first sighting of a rattle snake sunning itself on the path. We cycled past and then Stephen decided that he wanted to get a photo of it. Unfortunately, he was out of luck, because a passing runner had decided to move the snake off the path and into safety in the undergrowth! Yikes!!!
Tonight we are staying in Ellington, a sleepy little Missouri town. It can be a real experience going out for meals in these towns. Today is mothers day. We stopped for lunch in a small roadside cafe. Elderly parents and a middle aged daughter had chosen the cafe as their venue for celebration. The daughter was dressed up for the special occasion wearing a white, pearl embroidered skirt and matching top and white sequined shoes. She would not have looked out of place in a wedding. But, eating a burger in a greasy cafe she looked like a very odd one out.
65 miles
4 hours and 15 minutes in the saddle
37 mph max speed
13.3 mph average speed
We are now officially in the Ozarks, hill climbing all day. We had dreaded these hills, but in fact it is a lot easier than the Appalachians which were both steep and long. Or perhaps, we are just a lot fitter after 23 days of cycling :)
We have had yet another glorious day for cycling, it has been hot and sunny. Missouri is a state criss crossed with rivers and streams. It makes for lots of green fields and blossoming wildflowers along the roads. It really is very pretty in Missouri.
This morning we cycled through St Joe's State Park, on the outskirts of Farmington. It is off the AC route, but was strongly recommended to us by a triathlete we met along the way. It was an excellent diversion since it took us on a bike path right through the forest. Along the way we had our first sighting of a rattle snake sunning itself on the path. We cycled past and then Stephen decided that he wanted to get a photo of it. Unfortunately, he was out of luck, because a passing runner had decided to move the snake off the path and into safety in the undergrowth! Yikes!!!
Tonight we are staying in Ellington, a sleepy little Missouri town. It can be a real experience going out for meals in these towns. Today is mothers day. We stopped for lunch in a small roadside cafe. Elderly parents and a middle aged daughter had chosen the cafe as their venue for celebration. The daughter was dressed up for the special occasion wearing a white, pearl embroidered skirt and matching top and white sequined shoes. She would not have looked out of place in a wedding. But, eating a burger in a greasy cafe she looked like a very odd one out.
Saturday 12 May - Self propelled roller coaster ride
Chester - Farmington
52 miles
4 hours and 25 minutes in the saddle
39.1 mph max speed
11.7 mph average speed
Hot and sunny and also very humid.
We left Popeye's hometown this morning and by the time we reached the bridge over the Mississippi the mist was so dense we could not see the river. Disappointingly, we rode across the mighty Mississippi without seeing the murky, brown waters with lots of debris because the river is flooding upstream.
We crossed into Missouri and the river marked the state line. The first 10 miles in Missouri were flat as a pancake and made for fast riding. Then we hit the start of the Ozarks and the hills appeared. The Ozarks are roller coaster hills, slow up and fast down. The hills are short, steep and straight, so we can see the top and also the bottom when we whizz down.The landscape is beautiful lush green farmland across rolling hills. The scent of honeysuckle and birdsong has filled the air.
52 miles
4 hours and 25 minutes in the saddle
39.1 mph max speed
11.7 mph average speed
Hot and sunny and also very humid.
We left Popeye's hometown this morning and by the time we reached the bridge over the Mississippi the mist was so dense we could not see the river. Disappointingly, we rode across the mighty Mississippi without seeing the murky, brown waters with lots of debris because the river is flooding upstream.
We crossed into Missouri and the river marked the state line. The first 10 miles in Missouri were flat as a pancake and made for fast riding. Then we hit the start of the Ozarks and the hills appeared. The Ozarks are roller coaster hills, slow up and fast down. The hills are short, steep and straight, so we can see the top and also the bottom when we whizz down.The landscape is beautiful lush green farmland across rolling hills. The scent of honeysuckle and birdsong has filled the air.
Friday 11 May 2007
Friday 11 May - Reaching the Mississippi
Carbondale - Chester
41 miles - feels like we have hardly done any cycling
3 hours and 16 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
12.5 mph average speed
Today we have cycled to the Mississippi, which is the border with Missouri home of the dreaded Ozarks. We decided to have a short day because thunderstorms were forecast for this afternoon. They have yet to materialise and we both think that we could probably have cycled another 40 miles to reach the next town with a hotel. Oh well.
The weather has been warm and drizzly - unlike the UK where it is cold and drizzly. The ride along the Mississippi flood plains has been easy, it is very flat. Traffic has been more of an issue since we have been sharing the road with enormous coal trucks that deliver coal to the Mississippi barges.
Tonight we are staying in Chester, IL. home of Popeye. There are lots of shops and signs and also a huge statue in town commemorating Popeye. Hopefully we can eat some good spinach here that will help us power up the Ozark hills.
41 miles - feels like we have hardly done any cycling
3 hours and 16 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
12.5 mph average speed
Today we have cycled to the Mississippi, which is the border with Missouri home of the dreaded Ozarks. We decided to have a short day because thunderstorms were forecast for this afternoon. They have yet to materialise and we both think that we could probably have cycled another 40 miles to reach the next town with a hotel. Oh well.
The weather has been warm and drizzly - unlike the UK where it is cold and drizzly. The ride along the Mississippi flood plains has been easy, it is very flat. Traffic has been more of an issue since we have been sharing the road with enormous coal trucks that deliver coal to the Mississippi barges.
Tonight we are staying in Chester, IL. home of Popeye. There are lots of shops and signs and also a huge statue in town commemorating Popeye. Hopefully we can eat some good spinach here that will help us power up the Ozark hills.
Thursday 10 May - rest day in Carbondale
Today we have had our second rest day. We needed to get the back wheel on Mette's bike trued, since it was getting buckled yet again. It must be all those hearty breakfasts that I am eating that are having an undesirable effect on the wheel.
We picked a good day for a rest day since it has been raining on and off today. We have managed to get the usual things done like laundry and for those of you who check our blog - it has been updated! We spent 4 hours in Carbondale library on the computers, which for the first time on this trip has cost us to access. Not all US public libraries offer free internet access.
We have enjoyed some excellent Thai and Chinese food, which has been a welcome change from burgers and french fries!
We picked a good day for a rest day since it has been raining on and off today. We have managed to get the usual things done like laundry and for those of you who check our blog - it has been updated! We spent 4 hours in Carbondale library on the computers, which for the first time on this trip has cost us to access. Not all US public libraries offer free internet access.
We have enjoyed some excellent Thai and Chinese food, which has been a welcome change from burgers and french fries!
Thursday 10 May 2007
Wednesday 9 May - the hardest day so far
Elizabethtown - Carbondale
81 miles
6 hours and 33 minutes in the saddle
34.6 mph max speed
12.3 mph average speed
We left our very nice hotel at 6.50am this morning as we were keen to beat the heat of the day and the afternoon thunderstorms. The heat and humidity today has sapped our energy and the hills in Illinois are not big, but they are steep and there are lots of them.
We pushed on as hard as our legs allowed us, with storm clouds bubbling up around us. Thankfully we reached Carbondale without any rain. Carbondale is a big city of 20,000 people and the University of Southern Illinois is based here. Tomorrow we are planning our second rest day.
We are staying at Super 8, which is well within out budget and we have had a meal at a Chinese restaurant. It is a relief to not eat fast food, fried food or burgers.
We have had a great day for wild life sightings. Stephen saw a wolf this morning, less spectacularly we have seen snakes, deer, turtles, a marmot and wild turkey. Thankfully, we have not seen many dogs! We are glad to be in Illinois.
81 miles
6 hours and 33 minutes in the saddle
34.6 mph max speed
12.3 mph average speed
We left our very nice hotel at 6.50am this morning as we were keen to beat the heat of the day and the afternoon thunderstorms. The heat and humidity today has sapped our energy and the hills in Illinois are not big, but they are steep and there are lots of them.
We pushed on as hard as our legs allowed us, with storm clouds bubbling up around us. Thankfully we reached Carbondale without any rain. Carbondale is a big city of 20,000 people and the University of Southern Illinois is based here. Tomorrow we are planning our second rest day.
We are staying at Super 8, which is well within out budget and we have had a meal at a Chinese restaurant. It is a relief to not eat fast food, fried food or burgers.
We have had a great day for wild life sightings. Stephen saw a wolf this morning, less spectacularly we have seen snakes, deer, turtles, a marmot and wild turkey. Thankfully, we have not seen many dogs! We are glad to be in Illinois.
Tuesday 8 May - Hello Illinois, don't strike us down!
Providence - Elizabethtown, IL
45 miles
3 hours and 46 minutes in the saddle
33.5 mph max speed
11.9 mph average speed
We have been at the mercy of the weather today. Our destination was Vienna, another 40 miles down the road from E-town, IL. A severe thunderstorm put a sudden stop to our journey. We had lunch in E-town and discussed our options. While we were having lunch dark clouds gathered to the north of E-town. Locals didn't think the storm would hit so we decided to push on. About a mile out of town lightning struck the ground about 10 feet from where we were cycling. It was very scary and we ran for cover. Further up the road Brenda and Bert kindly let us take shelter on their porch till the storm passed.
The storm lasted for more than an hour and left us feeling humbled by mother nature. As the rain continued we decided it would be best to stay in E-town for the night. We are staying at the Grand Rose Hotel, which is operated by Illinois State and is the oldest hotel in the state, built in 1812. We are very glad to be here, our room is beautiful and everything is very clean. We have views from the porch to the Ohio River, and have watched the storm pass across to Kentucky.
Before we crossed the Ohio River we travelled through Amish country. We stopped at Yoders Variety Store and tested the immaculate hand made and inexpensive furniture. We wished we could have taken some with us back home.
Tonight we have eaten Ohio River fish and chips at the local floating restaurant. The food was delicious, freshly caught catfish from the river. As we were leaving one of the locals asked if we were lost. He could not believe that an English couple would intend to visit Elizabethtown, Illinois. We are definitely off the beaten tourist track!
45 miles
3 hours and 46 minutes in the saddle
33.5 mph max speed
11.9 mph average speed
We have been at the mercy of the weather today. Our destination was Vienna, another 40 miles down the road from E-town, IL. A severe thunderstorm put a sudden stop to our journey. We had lunch in E-town and discussed our options. While we were having lunch dark clouds gathered to the north of E-town. Locals didn't think the storm would hit so we decided to push on. About a mile out of town lightning struck the ground about 10 feet from where we were cycling. It was very scary and we ran for cover. Further up the road Brenda and Bert kindly let us take shelter on their porch till the storm passed.
The storm lasted for more than an hour and left us feeling humbled by mother nature. As the rain continued we decided it would be best to stay in E-town for the night. We are staying at the Grand Rose Hotel, which is operated by Illinois State and is the oldest hotel in the state, built in 1812. We are very glad to be here, our room is beautiful and everything is very clean. We have views from the porch to the Ohio River, and have watched the storm pass across to Kentucky.
Before we crossed the Ohio River we travelled through Amish country. We stopped at Yoders Variety Store and tested the immaculate hand made and inexpensive furniture. We wished we could have taken some with us back home.
Tonight we have eaten Ohio River fish and chips at the local floating restaurant. The food was delicious, freshly caught catfish from the river. As we were leaving one of the locals asked if we were lost. He could not believe that an English couple would intend to visit Elizabethtown, Illinois. We are definitely off the beaten tourist track!
Monday 7 May - cycling vs. biking, our Harley experience
Rough River Dam - Providence
92 hot and sweaty miles
6 hours and 37 minutes in the saddle
36.2 mph max speed
13.9 mph average speed
We left Rough River a little later than expected after a huge Kentucky breakfast. Today's ride has taken us through gentle countryside with mostly side and tail winds which has helped us complete big mileage. Still, it has been a long day and we were very happy to see the sign for Providence City Limits.
When we got into town a Harley Davidson rider with long hair, tattoos and a headband pulled alongside us and asked if we were the English couple that were staying at Magnolia House B&B. That was wild Willy our host for the night. He has been a great host and even travelled 40 miles to get us a bottle of wine. Yet again we are in a dry county. His son is graduating from high school tomorrow and is the valedictorian speaker, so the whole family spent the evening writing his speech and helping him practice.
Today we met another group of cyclists in Utica, travelling from Missouri to York Town. It was 3 older gentle men and their wives in a follow vehicle. Light weighters! One of the cyclists gave us a book he has written: Pedal 'n Ponder, a Christian Devotional for Cyclists. Obviously we are in the middle of the bible belt. In fact, today has had a religious flavour since Willy is an ordained pastor.
This morning we said good-bye to Debbie and Alan since it seems unlikely that we will catch up with them again on this trip. They have been great cycling companions and we are sad to leave them behind.
92 hot and sweaty miles
6 hours and 37 minutes in the saddle
36.2 mph max speed
13.9 mph average speed
We left Rough River a little later than expected after a huge Kentucky breakfast. Today's ride has taken us through gentle countryside with mostly side and tail winds which has helped us complete big mileage. Still, it has been a long day and we were very happy to see the sign for Providence City Limits.
When we got into town a Harley Davidson rider with long hair, tattoos and a headband pulled alongside us and asked if we were the English couple that were staying at Magnolia House B&B. That was wild Willy our host for the night. He has been a great host and even travelled 40 miles to get us a bottle of wine. Yet again we are in a dry county. His son is graduating from high school tomorrow and is the valedictorian speaker, so the whole family spent the evening writing his speech and helping him practice.
Today we met another group of cyclists in Utica, travelling from Missouri to York Town. It was 3 older gentle men and their wives in a follow vehicle. Light weighters! One of the cyclists gave us a book he has written: Pedal 'n Ponder, a Christian Devotional for Cyclists. Obviously we are in the middle of the bible belt. In fact, today has had a religious flavour since Willy is an ordained pastor.
This morning we said good-bye to Debbie and Alan since it seems unlikely that we will catch up with them again on this trip. They have been great cycling companions and we are sad to leave them behind.
Sunday 6 May - catching up with Deborah and Alan
Elizabethtown - Rough River Dam State Park
50 miles
3 hours and 18 minutes in the saddle
35.5 mph max speed
15.2 mph average speed - record speed!
We have had a great day. After long last the sun has been shining, it has been in the high 70s and we have had tail winds. What a difference a day can make! Not only that, we also gained an hour as we crossed the time line from eastern to central time. We arrived here at 11.15am and just missed breakfast!
Rough River Dam is a peaceful and beautiful place. We have the view across the lake from our balcony and can enjoy the wide variety of bird life here. There are red cardinals, blue birds, sparrows and countless others that we don't know the name of. We have also seen chipmunks, raccoons, and marmots.
Alan and Debbie have caught up with us and we have also met with Steve, another fellow TransAm'er. Tonight may be the last time we see Debbie and Alan since we are on average travelling further than they are each day.
50 miles
3 hours and 18 minutes in the saddle
35.5 mph max speed
15.2 mph average speed - record speed!
We have had a great day. After long last the sun has been shining, it has been in the high 70s and we have had tail winds. What a difference a day can make! Not only that, we also gained an hour as we crossed the time line from eastern to central time. We arrived here at 11.15am and just missed breakfast!
Rough River Dam is a peaceful and beautiful place. We have the view across the lake from our balcony and can enjoy the wide variety of bird life here. There are red cardinals, blue birds, sparrows and countless others that we don't know the name of. We have also seen chipmunks, raccoons, and marmots.
Alan and Debbie have caught up with us and we have also met with Steve, another fellow TransAm'er. Tonight may be the last time we see Debbie and Alan since we are on average travelling further than they are each day.
Saturday 5 May - drying out in another dry county
Bardstown - Elizabethtown, KY
34 measly miles
3 hours and 2 minutes in the saddle
29.4 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
After two days of rain and getting soaked we decided to dodge the thunderstorms and only go to Elizabethtown to avoid the rain. It has been a disappointingly short day.
To make ourselves feel a bit better we manged to get done a number of small things. We trued my back wheel which was starting to buckle, bought some more pepper spray and signed the door at the bike shop as done by countless other TransAm'ers.
It seems that every county we travel through in Kentucky is a dry one. Today it would have been nice to drown some of our sorrows in a cold pint, but all we could get was iced tea.
34 measly miles
3 hours and 2 minutes in the saddle
29.4 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
After two days of rain and getting soaked we decided to dodge the thunderstorms and only go to Elizabethtown to avoid the rain. It has been a disappointingly short day.
To make ourselves feel a bit better we manged to get done a number of small things. We trued my back wheel which was starting to buckle, bought some more pepper spray and signed the door at the bike shop as done by countless other TransAm'ers.
It seems that every county we travel through in Kentucky is a dry one. Today it would have been nice to drown some of our sorrows in a cold pint, but all we could get was iced tea.
Friday 4 May - Kentucky Derby Day
Harrodsburg - Bardstown
51 miles
4 hours and 2 minutes in the saddle
30.5 mph max speed
12.6 mph average speed
weather: thunder storms and we got soaked for the second day running
Our trip today was cut short today by bad weather yet again. When we were on the outskirts of Springfield a ferocious thunderstorm passed by and we decided that Bardstown would be a more suitable destination given the weather conditions than Lincoln's birth place national historic monument.
Springfield, which we passed through, was celebrating Kentucky Derby Day. All the school children were out in the streets dodging the showers while racing on their wooden play horses. We enjoyed the action from a cafe where the owner took pity on us because we were soaking wet. We were served steaming lattes and hot cinnamon pastries while we drip dried our clothes.
In the afternoon we pushed on to Bardstown, but diverted off the Adventure Cycling route to save miles and time. Bardstown is a historic town with palatial mansions. This evening we managed to just beat a major thunderstorm as we ran in to town for dinner. Kresos was worth making the dash for as the food was delicious.
51 miles
4 hours and 2 minutes in the saddle
30.5 mph max speed
12.6 mph average speed
weather: thunder storms and we got soaked for the second day running
Our trip today was cut short today by bad weather yet again. When we were on the outskirts of Springfield a ferocious thunderstorm passed by and we decided that Bardstown would be a more suitable destination given the weather conditions than Lincoln's birth place national historic monument.
Springfield, which we passed through, was celebrating Kentucky Derby Day. All the school children were out in the streets dodging the showers while racing on their wooden play horses. We enjoyed the action from a cafe where the owner took pity on us because we were soaking wet. We were served steaming lattes and hot cinnamon pastries while we drip dried our clothes.
In the afternoon we pushed on to Bardstown, but diverted off the Adventure Cycling route to save miles and time. Bardstown is a historic town with palatial mansions. This evening we managed to just beat a major thunderstorm as we ran in to town for dinner. Kresos was worth making the dash for as the food was delicious.
Thursday 3 May - cycling in the rain
Berea - Harrodsburg
60 miles
5 hours and 18 minutes in the wet saddle
31 mph max speed
11.3 mph average speed
Weather: torrential rain for the majority of the ride
Today we have had abysmal weather all day, it has been cloudy and rain, but thankfully no wind. Visibility has been limited so we have not been able to enjoy the scenery.
Today it has been much flatter and we have only had a few gentle hills. Rolling farmland for cows and horses grazing and lots of ranches. Braking in the wet is difficult and especially so when you are trying to spray a pack of dogs at the same time as manouvering down a steep hill. We are learning new cycling skills every day.
Harrodsburg is a pleasant small town with many grand houses.
Today we have coined a new expression: the Kentucky half-mile. It refers to any random distance of less than 10 miles. As we have been cycling across America we have learnt that most people here don't cycle or walk and their appreciation of distance is limited. When we visited Harrodsburg tourist information they advised us that our motel was merely half a mile out of town. 6 miles later we reached our motel for the night.
60 miles
5 hours and 18 minutes in the wet saddle
31 mph max speed
11.3 mph average speed
Weather: torrential rain for the majority of the ride
Today we have had abysmal weather all day, it has been cloudy and rain, but thankfully no wind. Visibility has been limited so we have not been able to enjoy the scenery.
Today it has been much flatter and we have only had a few gentle hills. Rolling farmland for cows and horses grazing and lots of ranches. Braking in the wet is difficult and especially so when you are trying to spray a pack of dogs at the same time as manouvering down a steep hill. We are learning new cycling skills every day.
Harrodsburg is a pleasant small town with many grand houses.
Today we have coined a new expression: the Kentucky half-mile. It refers to any random distance of less than 10 miles. As we have been cycling across America we have learnt that most people here don't cycle or walk and their appreciation of distance is limited. When we visited Harrodsburg tourist information they advised us that our motel was merely half a mile out of town. 6 miles later we reached our motel for the night.
Wednesday 2 May - Berea restday
Berea
4 miles cycled around town
We spent the day relaxing and also sent some surplus clothing home. We did a little bike maintenance and everything seems ok. We managed to get hold of Undaunted Courage.
Had a nice lunch and supper at the Main Street cafe owned by Sune who has emigrated from Denmark.
Today we have had cool weather, it has been overcast and late this afternoon a thunderstorm came through.
We were in need of a rest.
4 miles cycled around town
We spent the day relaxing and also sent some surplus clothing home. We did a little bike maintenance and everything seems ok. We managed to get hold of Undaunted Courage.
Had a nice lunch and supper at the Main Street cafe owned by Sune who has emigrated from Denmark.
Today we have had cool weather, it has been overcast and late this afternoon a thunderstorm came through.
We were in need of a rest.
Tuesday 1 May - Dog in my spoke
Booneville - Berea
48 miles
4 hours and 10 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
weather: another gloriously hot and sunny day
Today has been our worst dog day since starting this trip. We have used the pepper spray lots and we have also seen dog roadkill for the first time. A dog that had been hit by a car had just been left to rot by the side of the road right in front of a house. It seems that dogs are not kept as pets here, but rather something that you have because all of your neighbours have dogs.
Today we left early to beat the heat of the day. Alan and Deborah managed to convince Stephen that it is worth starting early on hot days. Stephen now believes that this is not a holiday, but pure punishment for earlier sins. Mette is still having a good time. Although, Stephen admits that it was very nice to arrive in Berea for 12.30, in time for a frappucino at a local coffee shop.
Tomorrow is our first rest day and we are looking forward to it after 13 consecutive days of cycling. We have done 828 miles since starting this trip and our average mileage is around 60 miles per day.
The landscape has gradually been changing, the hills are lower and less intimidating. Berea is on a plain and we had a great view of the town and surrounding area as we descended Big Hill mountain (what a great name!). The soil must be good because farming is more important here. We are impressed by the well tended vegetable patches that pride every property in this area.
We met with Alan and Deborah for dinner at the local Italian restaurant for a bit of carbo refuelling. Alan has reiterated Kristy's recommendation to read Undaunted Courage and tomorrow we will see if we can get it from one of the local bookshops.
48 miles
4 hours and 10 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
weather: another gloriously hot and sunny day
Today has been our worst dog day since starting this trip. We have used the pepper spray lots and we have also seen dog roadkill for the first time. A dog that had been hit by a car had just been left to rot by the side of the road right in front of a house. It seems that dogs are not kept as pets here, but rather something that you have because all of your neighbours have dogs.
Today we left early to beat the heat of the day. Alan and Deborah managed to convince Stephen that it is worth starting early on hot days. Stephen now believes that this is not a holiday, but pure punishment for earlier sins. Mette is still having a good time. Although, Stephen admits that it was very nice to arrive in Berea for 12.30, in time for a frappucino at a local coffee shop.
Tomorrow is our first rest day and we are looking forward to it after 13 consecutive days of cycling. We have done 828 miles since starting this trip and our average mileage is around 60 miles per day.
The landscape has gradually been changing, the hills are lower and less intimidating. Berea is on a plain and we had a great view of the town and surrounding area as we descended Big Hill mountain (what a great name!). The soil must be good because farming is more important here. We are impressed by the well tended vegetable patches that pride every property in this area.
We met with Alan and Deborah for dinner at the local Italian restaurant for a bit of carbo refuelling. Alan has reiterated Kristy's recommendation to read Undaunted Courage and tomorrow we will see if we can get it from one of the local bookshops.
Monday 30 April - In searh of pepper spray
Pippa Passes - Booneville
75 miles
7 hours and 4 minutes in the saddle
33.5 mph max speed
10.5 mph average speed
weather: sunny and very hot - Mette's bike computer read 110F on a hill!
Today has been another long and tough ride through Kentucky's coal mining country. On one stretch of road we were sharing the road with enormous coal mining trucks. The draft caused by the trucks pulled us along, even up the hills, it was uncomfortable and sometimes a bit scary. It was also very dusty.
As we have been travelling further west the hills have become smaller, but they are still quite steep making it hard work to climb. There are fewer strip mines and we have seen more arable farming, more horses and less abject poverty as we move away from areas that rely on coal mining. We have still seen a lot of poverty because we have cycled through the second poorest county in the US.
Spring has sprung and now we are seeing lush green trees and rhododendrons that are pink with flowers. It is beautiful countryside that is scarred by strip mining. In some places we see only the remains of what in the past must have been big hills. Litter is still a problem. Outside one trailer home it looked like they had thrown all the cans of drink that they had drunk in the past 20 years out the window. It looked awful. Litter seems to be something that is accepted as part of the culture in this area, or it could be that these are communities of hoarders that hang onto everything that they have ever bought including any packaging.
When we entered Booneville we spoke with lots of friendly people who were all amazed at our long bike ride. We were also asked to speak in English and Norwegian to a little boy who had never heard anything other than American. We really have some unexpected experiences on this trip.
Tonight we are staying at Linda's Victorian Rose B&B which is in an old converted church. Linda is very hospitable, looking after our every need including washing our very smelly cycling clothes. We are here with Alan and Debbie who are fellow TransAm cyclists. It is great to spend some time with other people who are doing the same trip. It has been great news for Stephen who lost his pepper spray during today's ride since Alan had a spare canister of Halt! pepper spray. All four of us are planning a rest day in Berea tomorrow and we have arranged to meet with Deborah and Alan for dinner.
75 miles
7 hours and 4 minutes in the saddle
33.5 mph max speed
10.5 mph average speed
weather: sunny and very hot - Mette's bike computer read 110F on a hill!
Today has been another long and tough ride through Kentucky's coal mining country. On one stretch of road we were sharing the road with enormous coal mining trucks. The draft caused by the trucks pulled us along, even up the hills, it was uncomfortable and sometimes a bit scary. It was also very dusty.
As we have been travelling further west the hills have become smaller, but they are still quite steep making it hard work to climb. There are fewer strip mines and we have seen more arable farming, more horses and less abject poverty as we move away from areas that rely on coal mining. We have still seen a lot of poverty because we have cycled through the second poorest county in the US.
Spring has sprung and now we are seeing lush green trees and rhododendrons that are pink with flowers. It is beautiful countryside that is scarred by strip mining. In some places we see only the remains of what in the past must have been big hills. Litter is still a problem. Outside one trailer home it looked like they had thrown all the cans of drink that they had drunk in the past 20 years out the window. It looked awful. Litter seems to be something that is accepted as part of the culture in this area, or it could be that these are communities of hoarders that hang onto everything that they have ever bought including any packaging.
When we entered Booneville we spoke with lots of friendly people who were all amazed at our long bike ride. We were also asked to speak in English and Norwegian to a little boy who had never heard anything other than American. We really have some unexpected experiences on this trip.
Tonight we are staying at Linda's Victorian Rose B&B which is in an old converted church. Linda is very hospitable, looking after our every need including washing our very smelly cycling clothes. We are here with Alan and Debbie who are fellow TransAm cyclists. It is great to spend some time with other people who are doing the same trip. It has been great news for Stephen who lost his pepper spray during today's ride since Alan had a spare canister of Halt! pepper spray. All four of us are planning a rest day in Berea tomorrow and we have arranged to meet with Deborah and Alan for dinner.
Sunday 29 April - Hello Kentucky!
Breaks to Pippa Passes
61 miles
5 hours and 29 minutes in the saddle
35.1 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
weather: usual hot and sunny and westerly (head)winds
This morning we enjoyed breakfast and spectacular views across Breaks canyon veiled in early morning mist.
Two words can sum up today's ride: hills and dogs. We have entered Kentucky and as expected there are more dogs here than in Virginia. There are not many stray dogs, but leash laws are not enforced. Consequently, owners leave their dogs to roam around their property and to chase unsuspecting cyclists down the road or up the hill, as the case may be. Today we used our pepper spray for the first time. Unfortunately Stephen was downwind and we know for a fact that pepper spray works well on humans and husbands in particular.
The hills in Kentucky are no less steep than those in Virginia. A pickup truck driver took pity on us today as we were labouring up a steep and winding hill. He offered to take us and our bikes on the back of his truck. We accepted without hesitation. The lift saved us lots of time and energy.
Today we have been cycling through coal mining country. Coal mining companies used to own the land, the houses that workers lived in and even the schools. When the mines needed fewer people to work for them either because automation or decline in business it left entire communities devastated. We have seen a lot of poverty today and it makes us feel conscious of how fortunate we are.
The mountain scenery is spectacular.
Tonight we are staying at Pippa Passes bike hostel that was used for the original TransAm bike ride in 1976. It redefines the word basic and we are convinced that some of the dust in our dorm is original 1976 dust. Yuck! We have been sharing the dorm with a couple of dutch cyclists who are doing the TransAm route to Kansas before they head back to the Netherlands.
61 miles
5 hours and 29 minutes in the saddle
35.1 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
weather: usual hot and sunny and westerly (head)winds
This morning we enjoyed breakfast and spectacular views across Breaks canyon veiled in early morning mist.
Two words can sum up today's ride: hills and dogs. We have entered Kentucky and as expected there are more dogs here than in Virginia. There are not many stray dogs, but leash laws are not enforced. Consequently, owners leave their dogs to roam around their property and to chase unsuspecting cyclists down the road or up the hill, as the case may be. Today we used our pepper spray for the first time. Unfortunately Stephen was downwind and we know for a fact that pepper spray works well on humans and husbands in particular.
The hills in Kentucky are no less steep than those in Virginia. A pickup truck driver took pity on us today as we were labouring up a steep and winding hill. He offered to take us and our bikes on the back of his truck. We accepted without hesitation. The lift saved us lots of time and energy.
Today we have been cycling through coal mining country. Coal mining companies used to own the land, the houses that workers lived in and even the schools. When the mines needed fewer people to work for them either because automation or decline in business it left entire communities devastated. We have seen a lot of poverty today and it makes us feel conscious of how fortunate we are.
The mountain scenery is spectacular.
Tonight we are staying at Pippa Passes bike hostel that was used for the original TransAm bike ride in 1976. It redefines the word basic and we are convinced that some of the dust in our dorm is original 1976 dust. Yuck! We have been sharing the dorm with a couple of dutch cyclists who are doing the TransAm route to Kansas before they head back to the Netherlands.
Saturday 28 April - leaving Virginia
Damascus - Breaks Interstate Park
78 miles
7 hours and 5 minutes in the saddle
38 mph max speed - new speed record
10.9 mph average speed
weather: cool and overcast, great cycling weather
Todays ride has been long and tough. We did a 3.7 mile climb to Hayters Gap, we thought the hill would never end. For every uphill is a downhill, and the one after Hayters Gap was great.
Today we have seen some new birds. They have been bright yellow with small patches of black. We have also seen a bright red wood pecker (it might be some other type of bird, our ornithology knowledge leaves a lot to be desired).
Tonight we are staying at Breaks Interstate Park. It is a fantastic location, with views across what is the largest canyon east of the Mississippi. The canyon is 5 miles long and 1600 feet deep.
78 miles
7 hours and 5 minutes in the saddle
38 mph max speed - new speed record
10.9 mph average speed
weather: cool and overcast, great cycling weather
Todays ride has been long and tough. We did a 3.7 mile climb to Hayters Gap, we thought the hill would never end. For every uphill is a downhill, and the one after Hayters Gap was great.
Today we have seen some new birds. They have been bright yellow with small patches of black. We have also seen a bright red wood pecker (it might be some other type of bird, our ornithology knowledge leaves a lot to be desired).
Tonight we are staying at Breaks Interstate Park. It is a fantastic location, with views across what is the largest canyon east of the Mississippi. The canyon is 5 miles long and 1600 feet deep.
Friday 27 April - Heading into the Allegheny mountains
Wythesville - Damascus
60 miles
5 hours and 15 minutes in the saddle
34.5 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
My strategy of getting down to breakfast earlier than Stephen has worked. I had no trouble getting up the hills today. A hearty and delicious lunch at Sugar Grove also helped. We had lunch with the locals who were all interested to hear about our bike ride.
After long last we have managed to purchase dog whistles. A small pet shop in Rural Retreat (what a great name!) had the high pitched whistles that we have spent the past two weeks looking for.
The ride today has taken us through Mount Rogers State Park on quiet, almost traffic free roads. The climbs have been gentle making for a nice ride. The best bit of today's ride was the 10 mile descent into Damascus. At 28 mph we broke the 25mph speed limit around a bend. Woohooo!
Tonight we are staying at Montgomery Homestead B&B, it is a very nice and inexpensive B&B. We are staying here with Dave who is hiking the 2000 mile Appalachian trail! He started in Georgia in February and will finish in Maine in the autumn. We think our bike ride is a big trip, but it is nothing in comparison to Dave's hike. He is an excellent pianist and when we arrived he was playing the piano in the room next to our bedroom. It was almost like being in one of those posh hotels where you have a pianist in the lobby.
60 miles
5 hours and 15 minutes in the saddle
34.5 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
My strategy of getting down to breakfast earlier than Stephen has worked. I had no trouble getting up the hills today. A hearty and delicious lunch at Sugar Grove also helped. We had lunch with the locals who were all interested to hear about our bike ride.
After long last we have managed to purchase dog whistles. A small pet shop in Rural Retreat (what a great name!) had the high pitched whistles that we have spent the past two weeks looking for.
The ride today has taken us through Mount Rogers State Park on quiet, almost traffic free roads. The climbs have been gentle making for a nice ride. The best bit of today's ride was the 10 mile descent into Damascus. At 28 mph we broke the 25mph speed limit around a bend. Woohooo!
Tonight we are staying at Montgomery Homestead B&B, it is a very nice and inexpensive B&B. We are staying here with Dave who is hiking the 2000 mile Appalachian trail! He started in Georgia in February and will finish in Maine in the autumn. We think our bike ride is a big trip, but it is nothing in comparison to Dave's hike. He is an excellent pianist and when we arrived he was playing the piano in the room next to our bedroom. It was almost like being in one of those posh hotels where you have a pianist in the lobby.
Thursday 26 April - give me food, lots of it!!!
Christiansburg - Wythesville
60 miles
5 hours and 27 minutes in the saddle
35.5 mph max speed - new speed record!
11 mph average speed
weather: hot with afternoon thunderstorms
This morning we managed to reach 13.4 mph average speed for the first two hours of our ride, which is the fastest we have travelled in the last week and a half. We wasted a bit of time in Radford trying to buy dogwhistles, but with no luck. There are pet shops in Radford, but they only open for a couple of hours in the afternoon. Very strange.
I need more food than just pink grapefruit juice mixed with water! Lunch stop near Draper
The area that we are travelling through seems to have a greater density of cattle and churches than citizens. We know that we are in the bible belt, but we didn't know that we are also in the cattle belt!
America is country of contrasts. Today we have cycled past vast mansions, with immaculate lawns. Sometimes on the neighbouring property there will be a trailer home that is run down and with huge amounts of junk on the property. Often there will be enormous coal trucks parked infront of the home, which must cost thousands of dollars. It has been eye opening for us to see that in a country as wealthy as America there are many people that live in extreme poverty. 
60 miles
5 hours and 27 minutes in the saddle
35.5 mph max speed - new speed record!
11 mph average speed
weather: hot with afternoon thunderstorms
This morning we managed to reach 13.4 mph average speed for the first two hours of our ride, which is the fastest we have travelled in the last week and a half. We wasted a bit of time in Radford trying to buy dogwhistles, but with no luck. There are pet shops in Radford, but they only open for a couple of hours in the afternoon. Very strange.
A very fine example of classic helmet head
The ride today has consisted of roller coaster hills with tough climbs and fast descents. For the first time on this trip Mette bonked, I just ran out of energy and no matter how hard I tried my legs would not pedal up the hills. Bonking is avoided by eating enough to keep your energy levels up. Tomorrow I will get up early and start having breakfast before Stephen and eat for longer! hopefully that will let me eat enough.
The area that we are travelling through seems to have a greater density of cattle and churches than citizens. We know that we are in the bible belt, but we didn't know that we are also in the cattle belt!
America is country of contrasts. Today we have cycled past vast mansions, with immaculate lawns. Sometimes on the neighbouring property there will be a trailer home that is run down and with huge amounts of junk on the property. Often there will be enormous coal trucks parked infront of the home, which must cost thousands of dollars. It has been eye opening for us to see that in a country as wealthy as America there are many people that live in extreme poverty.
The bad weather is on its way. Near Wythesville
Wednesday 25 April - Back on the bike
Troutville - Christiansburg
49 miles
4 hours and 30 minutes in the saddle
30.4 mph max speed
10.9 mph average speed
weather: hot and sunny and strong headwinds (when will get some tailwind?)
After yesterday's frustrations a good nights sleep helped clear our minds and we decided the best solution would be to get my bike fixed and then go off the Adventure Cycling Route and take the shortest road to Christiansburg, our next destination.
The staff at our favorite bikeshop in Virginia, Cardinal Bikes in Roanoke, were a bit suprised to see us waiting at their door when they opened. The mechanic changed my backwheel and also gave us some advice on the route to Christiansburg. The US 460 was a fairly busy, but wide road and it was ok to cycle. It avoided a big climb out to Catawba which was on the AC route.
After a couple of problems we are back on track and it feels good to be cycling.
49 miles
4 hours and 30 minutes in the saddle
30.4 mph max speed
10.9 mph average speed
weather: hot and sunny and strong headwinds (when will get some tailwind?)
After yesterday's frustrations a good nights sleep helped clear our minds and we decided the best solution would be to get my bike fixed and then go off the Adventure Cycling Route and take the shortest road to Christiansburg, our next destination.
The staff at our favorite bikeshop in Virginia, Cardinal Bikes in Roanoke, were a bit suprised to see us waiting at their door when they opened. The mechanic changed my backwheel and also gave us some advice on the route to Christiansburg. The US 460 was a fairly busy, but wide road and it was ok to cycle. It avoided a big climb out to Catawba which was on the AC route.
After a couple of problems we are back on track and it feels good to be cycling.
Saturday 5 May 2007
Tuesday 24 April - no spokes in my wheel!
Lexington -Troutville
67 miles
6 hours and 10 minutes in the saddle
32.9 mph max speed
10.8 mph average speed
Weather - another hot and sunny day
67 miles
6 hours and 10 minutes in the saddle
32.9 mph max speed
10.8 mph average speed
Weather - another hot and sunny day
Lexington street scene
We have had a nice ride from Lexington to Trouteville. On our way to Trouteville we bumped into a time trial. There were 100s of cyclists blocking our route. We asked the organiser if they would let us through, but no such luck. Instead we were re-routed onto another road that took us 5 miles out of our way. It was a nice ride, so it didn't matter.
Time trial near Natural Bridge - we are in good company!
Following a dog chase up a hill one of the spokes in my (Mette's) backwheel broke and buckled the wheel. Soon after the accident another cyclist pulled up next to us at a junction. He explained that there were no bike shops in Trouteville, but several in Roanoke. We arrived at the hotel and headed straight out to get to the bikeshop. The staff at the hotel routed us along a buzy by-pass. We decided to pull off the road at petrol station because the traffic was so heavy. After a few phone calls made by friendly locals a man in a van from the bike shop picked us up and took us and our bikes to the shop. They fixed my wheel and gave us a better route to cycle back to Trouteville.
Unfortunately, our troubles didn't finish there. As soon as we walked through the door to the hotel another spoke broke on my backwheel. We spent the rest of the evening considering our options, including hiring a car and driving to Missouri! That way we would miss out lots of hills and probably many nasty dogs. But that would be just too easy...
Maybe we should get one of these and drive to Missouri???
Plastic wildlife and real dogwood - aahhh!
Friday 4 May 2007
Monday 23 April - Burning our brakes at Vesuvius
Rockfish Gap - Lexington VA
55 miles
5 hours and 52 minutes in the saddle
30.5 mph max speed
9.3 mph average speed
Weather: hot and sunny, 90F and 20mph SSW winds - hot, hard work!
We have had yet another day of average speed in the single digits. We have been riding across the Blue Ridge, which has been spectacular, but hilly. The Blue Ridge Parkway is stunning and there are hardly any cars on the road. At times we felt we were the only humans around for miles - which was probably the case. We saw lots of soaring Turkey Vultures, that were ridge running. At one point there was one gliding along next to us.
There have been no dogs during todays ride, which has been bliss. Cycling is hard work on its own, but with a gnarling dog hot on your heels it becomes dangerous!
55 miles
5 hours and 52 minutes in the saddle
30.5 mph max speed
9.3 mph average speed
Weather: hot and sunny, 90F and 20mph SSW winds - hot, hard work!
We have had yet another day of average speed in the single digits. We have been riding across the Blue Ridge, which has been spectacular, but hilly. The Blue Ridge Parkway is stunning and there are hardly any cars on the road. At times we felt we were the only humans around for miles - which was probably the case. We saw lots of soaring Turkey Vultures, that were ridge running. At one point there was one gliding along next to us.
Entering the Blue Ridge Parkway and showing off my socks to cover sunburnt ankles, blouse to cover sunburnt arms and buff to cover sunburnt neck!
There have been no dogs during todays ride, which has been bliss. Cycling is hard work on its own, but with a gnarling dog hot on your heels it becomes dangerous!
Stephen admiring the view from the Blue Ridge Parkway
We stopped at a picnic table that was along the road, where there was an information board about the Hickory trees. It had information about the different varieties of Hickory trees, 20 different types 15 of which are native to the US. Leaf drawings were show so that you can distinguish the varieties, but we are here so early in the season that the trees have yet to bud. Many of the trees we have seen on the Blue Ridge have had their crowns damaged. We assume that storm winds must tear over the ridge and in the process rip off branches.
All you need to know about Hickory trees!
Here are the Hickory trees - a bit hard to recognise what's what without the leaves
Todays ride has taken us up and down along the ridge for about 25 miles. We came off the Blue Ridge and into Vesuvius. The descent was very steep and long. We had to stop halfway down the hill because our brakes were melting!
Tuesday 1 May 2007
Sunday 22 April - reaching the mountains
Charlottesville - Rockfish Gap/ Waynesboro
46 miles
4 hours and 50 minutes in the saddle
28.8 mph max speed
9.1 mph average speed
Another hot and sunny day with little wind
Our average speed has dropped to single digits for the first time on this trip as our route takes us into the Appalachians. The scenery is beautiful, but we often forget to look around as we focus on getting up the next hill. I try to keep an eye on what is behind me in my rear view mirror that is fixed to my helmet. It is great for spotting cars and for the view that we are leaving behind.
46 miles
4 hours and 50 minutes in the saddle
28.8 mph max speed
9.1 mph average speed
Another hot and sunny day with little wind
Our average speed has dropped to single digits for the first time on this trip as our route takes us into the Appalachians. The scenery is beautiful, but we often forget to look around as we focus on getting up the next hill. I try to keep an eye on what is behind me in my rear view mirror that is fixed to my helmet. It is great for spotting cars and for the view that we are leaving behind.
View towards Rockfish Gap
Cycling is a slow form of travel and one of the joys is to take in the sights, sounds and smells of the landscape. We continue to see brightly coloured birds and hear lots of birdsong. Our route takes us on quiet country lanes with hardly any traffic. Freshly mowed lawns are every where and the cut grass smells lovely.
Today I have purchased a lightweight blouse to cover up my sun burnt arms and a buff to cover my sun burnt neck. We have also been to a bike shop and straightened the back wheel on Stephen's bike which got buckled slightly when transporting the bikes on the plane.
At the Skyline Motel, Rockfish Gap. It was cheap and convenient, apart from forcing us to cycle 4 miles downhill to Waynesboro for food, and back up again afterwards. That's the charm of cycling!
Saturday 21 April - in pursuit of happiness
Louisa to Charlottesville
63 miles
5 hours and 28 minutes in the saddle
34.2 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
Hot, sunny weather and no wind
63 miles
5 hours and 28 minutes in the saddle
34.2 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
Hot, sunny weather and no wind
The happy cyclists at Monticello. We went on a guided tour with 20 other tourists. After a 60 mile bike ride, the other tourists gave us lots of space as we walked around the small rooms in the house.
Today we have visited Monticello, Thomas Jefforson's home. Thomas Jefferson was one of the authors of the Declaration of Independence. The pursuit of happiness is one of the rights that citizens of America have. This trip is our pursuit of happiness. Thomas Jefferson was also fascinated by the west and he was instrumental in purchasing Louisiana from France. Louisiana was any land west of the states along the eastern seaboard. We felt some affinity with Jefferson as we heard about his ideals and his wish to travel further west.
Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's home. The windows on the left of the building face west and it was behind those windows that Thomas Jefferson spent much of his time.
Today has been a fantastic day for cycling and we have both been feeling very happy! The hills continue to roll as we head towards the Blue Ridge. In Kents Store, a tiny place in the middle of nowhere, the locals came out in force (kids, dogs, pensioners, parents) to speak with us and hear about our trip. They were amazed at our trip and that it was possible to cycle all the way from Williamsburg to Oregon. None of them had heard about Route 76, the name of the bike route we are following. This was slightly surprising since one of the route signs were visible from the grocery store where we had stopped for a drink and also where most of the locals had congregated.
Cyclist friendly dogs at Kents Store
We would like to say a big thank you to the kind staff at Hampton Inn in Charlottesville who phoned around to all the local hotels to find us a room. Had we known that Charlottesville has a lot more visitors than hotel rooms we would have pre-booked a room. I spy a gap in the market!
Tonight we have enjoyed the culinary experience that is Burger King. It is part of American culture and we both believe that we need to try out the good, the bad and the plain disgusting :)
Today we wish:
Mette's grandmother happy 92 birthday - gratulerer med dagen Besta!
Rick and Reem happy wedding anniversary
and happy birthday to the Queen
Pretty roadkill on one of Virginia's roads
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