Bandon - Gold Beach
58 miles
4 hours and 36 minutes in the saddle
31 mph max speed
12.4 mph average speed
Today we finally got to experience the prevailing northerly winds that sweep the Pacific coast line. We have enjoyed tailwind all day and cycling has been blissfully effortless. Although, our average speed reflect the number of times we have stopped to take photos of the magnificent south Oregon coastline. We have seen sandy beaches, dramatic pine clad cliffs dropping 1000+ feet into the ocean and towering sea stacks dotted along the coastline.
Our route zig-zags the coastal ranges which means that we are travelling on hilly and winding roads. Mostly the shoulder is wide and there is plenty of space between us and erratically driven RVs.
We are staying in a cheap and clean hotel and have managed to get a room with an ocean view. There are lots of hotels in Gold Beach and the competition is stiff for early season business. We have bought dinner from the local supermarket, so we can eat in our room and enjoy the beautiful view of the sun setting over the Pacific. We were dreaming about this when we were cycling across the plains! We are back on track on our budget after last nights delicious blow-out.
Tuesday 26 June 2007
Sunday 24 June - Riding the Oregon coast
Florence - Bandon
80 miles
6 hours 39 minutes in the saddle
32 mph max speed
12.0 mph average speed
Today we started our ride towards San Francisco. When we got up this morning we saw the rain clouds roll in over the ocean and by the time we headed out for breakfast it was pouring down. Although the weather has been inclement, it really is great to be by the sea and just south of Florence we caught our first glimpse of the Pacific. Florence is by the coast, but slightly inland on the Siuslaw River estuary. We stopped for lunch in Winchester Bay and sat on the beach. It was wonderful to watch the waves and the blue sea and blue sky merge on the horizon.
We took the Seven Devils road from Charlston to near Bandon to avoid the RV traffic jam in the 101. It was a devil of a road for cycling, reminding us of the roller coaster hills in the Ozarks, but the views and peacefulness made it worthwhile. Our ride today has been mostly inland on the vast dunes that butt the Pacific along the central Oregon coast. The dunes are several miles wide and can be very steep, some of them are so big there are small lakes between the dunes.
Tonight we are having dinner at the only nice restaurant in Bandon. It is very nice and will completely blow our budget. Oh well. We have decided it is probably worthwhile going for cheap hotel rooms so that we can enjoy the excellent food along the Pacific coast.
80 miles
6 hours 39 minutes in the saddle
32 mph max speed
12.0 mph average speed
Today we started our ride towards San Francisco. When we got up this morning we saw the rain clouds roll in over the ocean and by the time we headed out for breakfast it was pouring down. Although the weather has been inclement, it really is great to be by the sea and just south of Florence we caught our first glimpse of the Pacific. Florence is by the coast, but slightly inland on the Siuslaw River estuary. We stopped for lunch in Winchester Bay and sat on the beach. It was wonderful to watch the waves and the blue sea and blue sky merge on the horizon.
We took the Seven Devils road from Charlston to near Bandon to avoid the RV traffic jam in the 101. It was a devil of a road for cycling, reminding us of the roller coaster hills in the Ozarks, but the views and peacefulness made it worthwhile. Our ride today has been mostly inland on the vast dunes that butt the Pacific along the central Oregon coast. The dunes are several miles wide and can be very steep, some of them are so big there are small lakes between the dunes.
Tonight we are having dinner at the only nice restaurant in Bandon. It is very nice and will completely blow our budget. Oh well. We have decided it is probably worthwhile going for cheap hotel rooms so that we can enjoy the excellent food along the Pacific coast.
Saturday 23 June - Reaching the Pacific!!!
Eugene - Florence
79 miles
6 hours and 40 minutes in the saddle
31.1 mph max speed
11.8 mph average speed
Woo hoo we made it!!! We have reached the Pacific and have achieved the goal we originally set. In 55 days of cycling we have travelled 3819 miles. We have had 13 rest days, some because of bad weather, but mostly to rest sore muscles and also to visit friends along the way. We have seen spectacular scenery with completely unrestricted view from the saddle. We have smelt sweet honeysuckle, fresh pine needles, thousands of freshly mowed lawns and wildlife galore. We have climbed some excruciating hills, only to find our jaws drop when we reach the top and enjoy views for miles of hills, mountains and lakes. We have been flying down steep descents where our brakes and wheel rims have been red hot by the time we reach the bottom. It really has been an amazing trip and most of all lots of fun.
The weather has at times been interesting, mostly in Kansas. The bike provides no protection from the elements and in the case of lightning it is best to be off the bike.
We have been amazed at how friendly people along the way have been. Locals have been unfailingly enthusiastic about their home town and proud of their history. They have also been interested to hear about our journey.
We have only been lost once during our trip and that was in Kentucky on a day when it rained and we were chased by dogs. We have had no trouble finding a bed for the night, although some days it has meant that we have had to cycle a long way. Regardless, we think staying in motels is better than camping.
Our bike ride is not quite over. Tomorrow we head south along the Pacific coast . We expect to reach San Francisco in about 10 days.
79 miles
6 hours and 40 minutes in the saddle
31.1 mph max speed
11.8 mph average speed
Woo hoo we made it!!! We have reached the Pacific and have achieved the goal we originally set. In 55 days of cycling we have travelled 3819 miles. We have had 13 rest days, some because of bad weather, but mostly to rest sore muscles and also to visit friends along the way. We have seen spectacular scenery with completely unrestricted view from the saddle. We have smelt sweet honeysuckle, fresh pine needles, thousands of freshly mowed lawns and wildlife galore. We have climbed some excruciating hills, only to find our jaws drop when we reach the top and enjoy views for miles of hills, mountains and lakes. We have been flying down steep descents where our brakes and wheel rims have been red hot by the time we reach the bottom. It really has been an amazing trip and most of all lots of fun.
The weather has at times been interesting, mostly in Kansas. The bike provides no protection from the elements and in the case of lightning it is best to be off the bike.
We have been amazed at how friendly people along the way have been. Locals have been unfailingly enthusiastic about their home town and proud of their history. They have also been interested to hear about our journey.
We have only been lost once during our trip and that was in Kentucky on a day when it rained and we were chased by dogs. We have had no trouble finding a bed for the night, although some days it has meant that we have had to cycle a long way. Regardless, we think staying in motels is better than camping.
Our bike ride is not quite over. Tomorrow we head south along the Pacific coast . We expect to reach San Francisco in about 10 days.
Friday 22 June - Another rest day
Eugene - rest day
A day of the usual errands, finding a computer, finding a bike shop and spending some money and finding a good restaurant. We decided to stop in Eugene because it would enable us to celebrate with Jesse that he has completed his TransAm and to spend some time in Jesse's home town. We went out for a Mexican (we seem to find it difficult to escape the lure of Mexican restaurants), which was very good.
It is a bit strange having a rest day only 70 miles away from the Pacific, but we really needed to get a new tyre for Stephen's bike. Good bike shops are few and far between, we know because we have spent the past 1500 miles looking for a replacement tyre.
We have also visited the Nike shop in Eugene. Nike was started here by a university running team coach and one of the students.
A day of the usual errands, finding a computer, finding a bike shop and spending some money and finding a good restaurant. We decided to stop in Eugene because it would enable us to celebrate with Jesse that he has completed his TransAm and to spend some time in Jesse's home town. We went out for a Mexican (we seem to find it difficult to escape the lure of Mexican restaurants), which was very good.
It is a bit strange having a rest day only 70 miles away from the Pacific, but we really needed to get a new tyre for Stephen's bike. Good bike shops are few and far between, we know because we have spent the past 1500 miles looking for a replacement tyre.
We have also visited the Nike shop in Eugene. Nike was started here by a university running team coach and one of the students.
Friday 22 June 2007
Thursday 21 June - 30 miles of freewheeling!
Sisters - Eugene
103 miles
7 hours and 58 minutes in the saddle
29.7 mph max speed
12.8 mph average speed
Another century ride and what a nice one it has been. This morning we checked with the ranger station in Sisters that McKenzie Pass was open, which it is to cyclists only and today was the last day before it shuts completely for construction work. We felt very lucky. If it was shut we would have done another 120 mile day to get to Eugene. Too much to do two 120 milers in one week.
It was a 15 mile climb to get from Sisters to the summit of McKenzie Pass and 2000 feet elevation gain. It was great riding because the road was free of cars due to the closure. 5 miles from the top we stopped to admire the views of the lava flows and across to Mt Washington and Mt Hood. Jesse, our fellow TransAm'er that we met when climbing Hoosier Pass, came by as we were taking photos of the mountains. It was great to see a friendly face that we recognised. We rode together for the next 25 miles and arranged to meet in Eugene for dinner tomorrow night. Jesse finishes his TransAm in Eugene so we will celebrate it together.
The descent from McKenzie Pass was a 35 mile absolutely fantastic downhill, which made all the hard climbs we have done worthwhile. We dropped 5000 feet elevation and saw the vegetation change from dry, pine clad slopes to lush rain forests. And not a car around to interrupt our 30mph freewheeling down the switchbacks. If there was a lift to the top we would do it again!
Tonight we have reached Eugene and have re-entered civilisation after 5 days in small town Oregon. It is nice to be in a big city where we can get more than a burger and beer for dinner. Tonight we have celebrated our penultimate TransAm ride by having a nice dinner and enjoying a really good bottle of Oregon wine.
Tomorrow we will have a rest day before we cycle the last few miles to the Pacific. We can't wait to get to the beach and see the waves of the Pacific. We are already starting to feel that we have achieved something pretty special.
103 miles
7 hours and 58 minutes in the saddle
29.7 mph max speed
12.8 mph average speed
Another century ride and what a nice one it has been. This morning we checked with the ranger station in Sisters that McKenzie Pass was open, which it is to cyclists only and today was the last day before it shuts completely for construction work. We felt very lucky. If it was shut we would have done another 120 mile day to get to Eugene. Too much to do two 120 milers in one week.
It was a 15 mile climb to get from Sisters to the summit of McKenzie Pass and 2000 feet elevation gain. It was great riding because the road was free of cars due to the closure. 5 miles from the top we stopped to admire the views of the lava flows and across to Mt Washington and Mt Hood. Jesse, our fellow TransAm'er that we met when climbing Hoosier Pass, came by as we were taking photos of the mountains. It was great to see a friendly face that we recognised. We rode together for the next 25 miles and arranged to meet in Eugene for dinner tomorrow night. Jesse finishes his TransAm in Eugene so we will celebrate it together.
The descent from McKenzie Pass was a 35 mile absolutely fantastic downhill, which made all the hard climbs we have done worthwhile. We dropped 5000 feet elevation and saw the vegetation change from dry, pine clad slopes to lush rain forests. And not a car around to interrupt our 30mph freewheeling down the switchbacks. If there was a lift to the top we would do it again!
Tonight we have reached Eugene and have re-entered civilisation after 5 days in small town Oregon. It is nice to be in a big city where we can get more than a burger and beer for dinner. Tonight we have celebrated our penultimate TransAm ride by having a nice dinner and enjoying a really good bottle of Oregon wine.
Tomorrow we will have a rest day before we cycle the last few miles to the Pacific. We can't wait to get to the beach and see the waves of the Pacific. We are already starting to feel that we have achieved something pretty special.
Wednesday 20 June - First glimpse of our last climb
Mitchell - Sisters
91 miles
7 hours and 52 minutes in the saddle
30.9 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
We enjoyed a hearty breakfast in Mitchell's one and only greasy spoon cafe before heading towards the Cascades. Mitchell must be one of America's unluckiest small towns. In the space of 50 years it has endured 5 flash floods that have swept away entire buildings and two major fires. The waitress told us that the floods happen in July and August and that they are due another flood soon. Poor people of Mitchell spend the summer watching the clouds over the mountains to see if severe weather is heading their way.
Our ride started with a long, slow climb in hot weather over the Ochoco Pass, followed by a pleasant descent into Prineville. We then rode along long flats in pine meadows towards Redmond. Redmond is one enormous construction site. We experienced the heaviest and worst traffic of the entire TransAm here. Once out of Redmond we got our first glimpse of the Cascade mountains and also of the Three Sisters Mountains. We were surprised that there was so much snow on the mountains, we hope that the McKenzie Pass is open and that we don't have to take the 20 mile longer detour.
91 miles
7 hours and 52 minutes in the saddle
30.9 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
We enjoyed a hearty breakfast in Mitchell's one and only greasy spoon cafe before heading towards the Cascades. Mitchell must be one of America's unluckiest small towns. In the space of 50 years it has endured 5 flash floods that have swept away entire buildings and two major fires. The waitress told us that the floods happen in July and August and that they are due another flood soon. Poor people of Mitchell spend the summer watching the clouds over the mountains to see if severe weather is heading their way.
Our ride started with a long, slow climb in hot weather over the Ochoco Pass, followed by a pleasant descent into Prineville. We then rode along long flats in pine meadows towards Redmond. Redmond is one enormous construction site. We experienced the heaviest and worst traffic of the entire TransAm here. Once out of Redmond we got our first glimpse of the Cascade mountains and also of the Three Sisters Mountains. We were surprised that there was so much snow on the mountains, we hope that the McKenzie Pass is open and that we don't have to take the 20 mile longer detour.
Tuesday 19 June - Meeting a mad Swede
Prairie City - Mitchell
83 miles
6 hours and 41 minutes in the saddle
34.1 mph max speed
12.4 mph average speed
In spite of doing 120 miles yesterday we managed to get back on bikes today and do another good ride without noticing too much stiffness or posterior pain :) The first 30 miles of our ride were downhill, which was nice and relaxing.
Today we have seen several TransAm'ers that are riding west to east. We feel quite glad that we are at the end of our trip rather than at the start considering the heat that is building across the plains and along the east coast. We also met a Swedish man, who is 59, who is running across America. Running across America!!! Good grief. We think he is crazy - lots of people think we are crazy to cycle. I suppose everything relative to what you think is fun or a challenge to do. He told us that he expects it will take him 100 days to complete the trip, averaging 35 miles a day. That's like running 9 miles more than a marathon every day for over 3 months. He was pushing a 3 wheeled pram with his stuff in it. Oh boy.
What we have seen of Oregon has been very pretty. Lots of mountains and forests, lakes and rivers. We have enjoyed our riding so far and are sure that the next 3 days, and last 3 days (!) of our TransAm will be just as good.
Today Stephen caused our first bike kill when he rode over a snake. Soon after he had hit it a logging truck passed us, so we are sure the snake would have been killed anyway. At least that is what we choose to think to make us feel a little better.
83 miles
6 hours and 41 minutes in the saddle
34.1 mph max speed
12.4 mph average speed
In spite of doing 120 miles yesterday we managed to get back on bikes today and do another good ride without noticing too much stiffness or posterior pain :) The first 30 miles of our ride were downhill, which was nice and relaxing.
Today we have seen several TransAm'ers that are riding west to east. We feel quite glad that we are at the end of our trip rather than at the start considering the heat that is building across the plains and along the east coast. We also met a Swedish man, who is 59, who is running across America. Running across America!!! Good grief. We think he is crazy - lots of people think we are crazy to cycle. I suppose everything relative to what you think is fun or a challenge to do. He told us that he expects it will take him 100 days to complete the trip, averaging 35 miles a day. That's like running 9 miles more than a marathon every day for over 3 months. He was pushing a 3 wheeled pram with his stuff in it. Oh boy.
What we have seen of Oregon has been very pretty. Lots of mountains and forests, lakes and rivers. We have enjoyed our riding so far and are sure that the next 3 days, and last 3 days (!) of our TransAm will be just as good.
Today Stephen caused our first bike kill when he rode over a snake. Soon after he had hit it a logging truck passed us, so we are sure the snake would have been killed anyway. At least that is what we choose to think to make us feel a little better.
Sunday 18 June - Unexpectedly long ride
Ontario - Prairie City
120 miles (again!!!)
10 hours and 5 minutes in the saddle
37.5 mph max speed
11.8 mph average speed
We left Ontario this morning expecting to do a 102 mile ride, but Google maps had provided inaccurate information. 40 miles out of Ontario we saw a sign that said 80 miles to Prairie City. There was no accommodation between Ontario and Prairie City, so we had to push on.
Thankfully the winds have been light and it has not been too hot which has made for easier riding. We climbed up from the Snake River Plateau about 2000 feet to another plateau. The landscape changed from arid and mainly brown desert to lush green valleys and snow capped mountains. The second half of our ride took us through large pine forests where we saw lots of deer. We assumed there would be bears around so we kept loud conversations to fend off any bears that might be hungry for a cyclist or two. Our bear fears were confirmed when we spoke with one of the locals who told us that bear had been seen twice on the road we were on in the last 5 weeks!
The last 9 miles were all downhill with views across to Strawberry Mountain, it was spectacular riding even if we were exhausted.
120 miles (again!!!)
10 hours and 5 minutes in the saddle
37.5 mph max speed
11.8 mph average speed
We left Ontario this morning expecting to do a 102 mile ride, but Google maps had provided inaccurate information. 40 miles out of Ontario we saw a sign that said 80 miles to Prairie City. There was no accommodation between Ontario and Prairie City, so we had to push on.
Thankfully the winds have been light and it has not been too hot which has made for easier riding. We climbed up from the Snake River Plateau about 2000 feet to another plateau. The landscape changed from arid and mainly brown desert to lush green valleys and snow capped mountains. The second half of our ride took us through large pine forests where we saw lots of deer. We assumed there would be bears around so we kept loud conversations to fend off any bears that might be hungry for a cyclist or two. Our bear fears were confirmed when we spoke with one of the locals who told us that bear had been seen twice on the road we were on in the last 5 weeks!
The last 9 miles were all downhill with views across to Strawberry Mountain, it was spectacular riding even if we were exhausted.
Sunday 17 June 2007
Sunday 17 June - We're in Oregon!
Boise, Idaho - Ontario, Oregon
60 miles
5 hours and 25 minutes in the saddle
27.5 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
We have reached Oregon, our second last state before we leave the US to continue our trip around the world. It felt like a big milestone to cross the state line because Oregon borders the Pacific. We have less than 500 miles left to cycle before we reach the beach!
Our ride today has taken us along the fruit growing area in Idaho. Unfortunately we missed the cherry festival by a day, although there were lots of fruit stalls along the road.The Snake River Plateau is arid and the land is mostly brown with only sage brush able to survive. Along the river and irrigation canals there are green veins where arable farming and fruit growing is made possible. Idaho is big on irrigation. We seem to see endless sprinkler systems. Today we cycled through a field of mint. The smell was so strong it cleared our noses, it was like cycling through a tube of toothpaste.
Tomorrow we will probably do another century ride in order to get to the next bed for the night. We will also re-join the Adventure Cycling route which we are looking forward to. The AC maps have lots of useful information such as where we can buy food along the route and also where there are places to stay, which we have been missing while we have been off route.
60 miles
5 hours and 25 minutes in the saddle
27.5 mph max speed
11.1 mph average speed
We have reached Oregon, our second last state before we leave the US to continue our trip around the world. It felt like a big milestone to cross the state line because Oregon borders the Pacific. We have less than 500 miles left to cycle before we reach the beach!
Our ride today has taken us along the fruit growing area in Idaho. Unfortunately we missed the cherry festival by a day, although there were lots of fruit stalls along the road.The Snake River Plateau is arid and the land is mostly brown with only sage brush able to survive. Along the river and irrigation canals there are green veins where arable farming and fruit growing is made possible. Idaho is big on irrigation. We seem to see endless sprinkler systems. Today we cycled through a field of mint. The smell was so strong it cleared our noses, it was like cycling through a tube of toothpaste.
Tomorrow we will probably do another century ride in order to get to the next bed for the night. We will also re-join the Adventure Cycling route which we are looking forward to. The AC maps have lots of useful information such as where we can buy food along the route and also where there are places to stay, which we have been missing while we have been off route.
Saturday 16 June - Floating down the Boise River
Rest day in Boise
Today we have spent the day with Ken and his family. We have had a fantastic time kayaking down Boise River, which is the must do thing in Boise in the summer. Today was the first day the river was open for floating. People on all sorts of inflatable or floatable rafts were bobbing down the river. I asked Ken if there were ever multi raft pile-ups, but he assured us that crashing would not be a problem.
It has been a perfect day for being on the river. The temperatures were in the 80s, but the breeze along the river was cooled by the freezing cold water that has only reached 52f. The Boise River runs from a reservoir that is fed by snow melt, hence the very cold water. In spite the cold water, both Ken and Stephen went for a swim. It was so cold Stephen hardly managed to speak after he re-emerged from his dive/ belly flop.
Tomorrow we will be back on the bikes, it has been great to have a rest day in Boise which is a really nice city.
Today we have spent the day with Ken and his family. We have had a fantastic time kayaking down Boise River, which is the must do thing in Boise in the summer. Today was the first day the river was open for floating. People on all sorts of inflatable or floatable rafts were bobbing down the river. I asked Ken if there were ever multi raft pile-ups, but he assured us that crashing would not be a problem.
It has been a perfect day for being on the river. The temperatures were in the 80s, but the breeze along the river was cooled by the freezing cold water that has only reached 52f. The Boise River runs from a reservoir that is fed by snow melt, hence the very cold water. In spite the cold water, both Ken and Stephen went for a swim. It was so cold Stephen hardly managed to speak after he re-emerged from his dive/ belly flop.
Tomorrow we will be back on the bikes, it has been great to have a rest day in Boise which is a really nice city.
Friday 15 June 2007
Friday 15 June - Hitching a ride!
Bellevue - Mountain Home
93 miles
6 hours and 53 minutes in the saddle
33.7 mph max speed
13.4 mph average speed
We got up at the crack of dawn this morning, literally. We got up at 5am and were on the bikes by 6.10. The purpose of the early start was to beat the wind, since the weather forecast was for yet more breeze (Idaho terminology for gales), but the breeze never materialised. In comparison to yesterday we were flying along and by 9am we had done 45 miles on the flat Snake River Plateau.
When we reached Fairfield (60 miles) it got a bit more hilly and also more enjoyable to cycle. We had good views across to the mountains and saw several sign posts for ski slopes. We finished our ride with a fantastic 5 mile down hill onto a low lying plain. The temperature increased dramatically as we dropped down from the plateau and into Mountain Home.
Tonight we are staying in Boise, 40 miles north of Mountain Home. When we stopped at a petrol station in Mountain Home to get some water we managed to hitch a ride in a pick-up to Boise. Yes, it is cheating, but the bike route was more than 100 miles to Boise compared to the Interstate (not allowed to cycle on Interstates) which is only 40 miles. Hitching a lift was a no-brainer.
We are glad to be in Boise. It is a big city with lots of places to stay and to eat. We have been out for a lovely Italian and we are staying in a nice (read: clean) hotel. Tomorrow we are looking forward to a rest day and to kayaking on the river with Ken and his family.
93 miles
6 hours and 53 minutes in the saddle
33.7 mph max speed
13.4 mph average speed
We got up at the crack of dawn this morning, literally. We got up at 5am and were on the bikes by 6.10. The purpose of the early start was to beat the wind, since the weather forecast was for yet more breeze (Idaho terminology for gales), but the breeze never materialised. In comparison to yesterday we were flying along and by 9am we had done 45 miles on the flat Snake River Plateau.
When we reached Fairfield (60 miles) it got a bit more hilly and also more enjoyable to cycle. We had good views across to the mountains and saw several sign posts for ski slopes. We finished our ride with a fantastic 5 mile down hill onto a low lying plain. The temperature increased dramatically as we dropped down from the plateau and into Mountain Home.
Tonight we are staying in Boise, 40 miles north of Mountain Home. When we stopped at a petrol station in Mountain Home to get some water we managed to hitch a ride in a pick-up to Boise. Yes, it is cheating, but the bike route was more than 100 miles to Boise compared to the Interstate (not allowed to cycle on Interstates) which is only 40 miles. Hitching a lift was a no-brainer.
We are glad to be in Boise. It is a big city with lots of places to stay and to eat. We have been out for a lovely Italian and we are staying in a nice (read: clean) hotel. Tomorrow we are looking forward to a rest day and to kayaking on the river with Ken and his family.
Thursday 14 June - Idaho, famous for strong wind
Arco - Bellevue
69 miles
7 hours and 7 minutes in the saddle
25 mph max speed
9.6 mph average speed
Idaho number plates should have their tag line changed from "famous potatoes" to "ferocious winds". Today we have cycled along the Snake River Plateau and into the wind for the entire day, it has been incredibly tough and very, very slow. We have cycled through "Craters of the Moon" national monument. It is a vast lava sea of endless black lava rock formations and volcanic craters. It is a strange, desolate place and we were advised that this is where astronauts on the first moon landing did some of their training.
Tonight we are in Bellevue, yet another ski resort. It is more civilised than Arco, we have a choice of restaurants although no choice for hotels.
Although the wind has been punishing today, we prefer the weather patterns of the west to the mid-west. Weather is more stable here and there is no build up of storm clouds in the afternoon. We continue to be at high elevation (6000+ feet), mornings are cold, but it soon warms up.
69 miles
7 hours and 7 minutes in the saddle
25 mph max speed
9.6 mph average speed
Idaho number plates should have their tag line changed from "famous potatoes" to "ferocious winds". Today we have cycled along the Snake River Plateau and into the wind for the entire day, it has been incredibly tough and very, very slow. We have cycled through "Craters of the Moon" national monument. It is a vast lava sea of endless black lava rock formations and volcanic craters. It is a strange, desolate place and we were advised that this is where astronauts on the first moon landing did some of their training.
Tonight we are in Bellevue, yet another ski resort. It is more civilised than Arco, we have a choice of restaurants although no choice for hotels.
Although the wind has been punishing today, we prefer the weather patterns of the west to the mid-west. Weather is more stable here and there is no build up of storm clouds in the afternoon. We continue to be at high elevation (6000+ feet), mornings are cold, but it soon warms up.
Wednesday 13 June - Experiencing EBR-1
Idaho Falls - Arco
72 miles
6 hours and 33 minutes in the saddle
21.6 mph max speed
10.8 mph average speed
Arco really is in the middle of nowhere. Today we have cycled through 72 miles of barren, arid desert. After about 50 miles we spotted what looked like a nuclear reactor on the horizon. It turned out to be the Idaho National Laboratory for energy research. A little later there was a sign for EBR-1, the worlds first nuclear power plant. EBR-1 (Electronic Breeding Reactor - 1) it was a fascinating insight into nuclear power and the guides were incredibly knowledgeable and answered our endless stream of questions apart from "which hotels in Arco are nice". That question was met by a hearty laugh. Arco can be best described as a bit of an oddball outpost. Mette had an atomic burger for dinner, it didn't glow in the dark, and gastronomically left a lot to be desired.
72 miles
6 hours and 33 minutes in the saddle
21.6 mph max speed
10.8 mph average speed
Arco really is in the middle of nowhere. Today we have cycled through 72 miles of barren, arid desert. After about 50 miles we spotted what looked like a nuclear reactor on the horizon. It turned out to be the Idaho National Laboratory for energy research. A little later there was a sign for EBR-1, the worlds first nuclear power plant. EBR-1 (Electronic Breeding Reactor - 1) it was a fascinating insight into nuclear power and the guides were incredibly knowledgeable and answered our endless stream of questions apart from "which hotels in Arco are nice". That question was met by a hearty laugh. Arco can be best described as a bit of an oddball outpost. Mette had an atomic burger for dinner, it didn't glow in the dark, and gastronomically left a lot to be desired.
Tuesday 12 June 2007
Tuesday 12 June - Crossing the Tetons
Jackson - Idaho Falls
91 miles
8 hour and 23 minutes in the saddle
35.3 mph max speed
10.8 mph average speed
Today we blew away the cobwebs from too many rest days in a short space of time and headed west from Jackson and off the Adventure Cycling route that we have been following. In the interest of saving time and visiting Ken in Boise we have decided to cut the route short and miss out Montana, we will make up for it by cycling from Oregon to San Francisco instead.
This morning we left Jackson in glorious sunshine and headed for Teton Pass, a 5 mile climb at 10% grade. It was a killer hill and probably our toughest climb on the entire trip, even tougher than some of the climbs in Appalachia. We had to stop several times on the way up to admire the view and to stretch muscles that were close to cramping. The descent from Teton Pass took us over the state line and into Idaho, our third last state on this trip.
Our second pass came 10 miles after Teton Pass and it was nowhere near as hard work. However, it took us through dense forests that reminded us of the ones in Yellowstone where we had seen bear. In the attempt to fend off any bears lurking behind the trees we talked as loud as we could, while cycling uphill. We saw no bears, either they were not around or they didn't like our English accents.
The descent from Pine Creek Pass took us into the wide, lush and green Swan Valley. It reminded us of Switzerland as we could see snow capped mountains all around. We stopped at the petrol station in Swan Valley for lunch and enjoyed our noisiest lunch stop of the trip. The road in front of the petrol station was being widened and there was a multitude of construction machinery in constant use.
The remainder of the ride followed Snake River into Idaho Falls. According to the receptionist at the Super 8 where we are staying the only reason people come to Idaho Falls is because they are passing through. From what we have seen we have to say we agree.
It is nice to see the comments on the blog. We enjoy writing it and we hope you enjoy reading about our trip.
91 miles
8 hour and 23 minutes in the saddle
35.3 mph max speed
10.8 mph average speed
Today we blew away the cobwebs from too many rest days in a short space of time and headed west from Jackson and off the Adventure Cycling route that we have been following. In the interest of saving time and visiting Ken in Boise we have decided to cut the route short and miss out Montana, we will make up for it by cycling from Oregon to San Francisco instead.
This morning we left Jackson in glorious sunshine and headed for Teton Pass, a 5 mile climb at 10% grade. It was a killer hill and probably our toughest climb on the entire trip, even tougher than some of the climbs in Appalachia. We had to stop several times on the way up to admire the view and to stretch muscles that were close to cramping. The descent from Teton Pass took us over the state line and into Idaho, our third last state on this trip.
Our second pass came 10 miles after Teton Pass and it was nowhere near as hard work. However, it took us through dense forests that reminded us of the ones in Yellowstone where we had seen bear. In the attempt to fend off any bears lurking behind the trees we talked as loud as we could, while cycling uphill. We saw no bears, either they were not around or they didn't like our English accents.
The descent from Pine Creek Pass took us into the wide, lush and green Swan Valley. It reminded us of Switzerland as we could see snow capped mountains all around. We stopped at the petrol station in Swan Valley for lunch and enjoyed our noisiest lunch stop of the trip. The road in front of the petrol station was being widened and there was a multitude of construction machinery in constant use.
The remainder of the ride followed Snake River into Idaho Falls. According to the receptionist at the Super 8 where we are staying the only reason people come to Idaho Falls is because they are passing through. From what we have seen we have to say we agree.
It is nice to see the comments on the blog. We enjoy writing it and we hope you enjoy reading about our trip.
Monday 11 June 2007
Sunday 10 June/ Monday 11 June - Yellowstone in a car!
No cycling today, we are back in our favourite car a Subaru Outback driving around Yellowstone. We have seen a lot and have also decided that it is better to travel through Yellowstone by car rather than bike. Narrow, winding roads trafficated by RVs (recreational vehicles = busses! usually driven in an erratic manner) towing SUVs is not ideal for cycling.
Today we have seen Old Faithful erupt, as expected. We have seen hot springs that stink of sulphur and lots of other geysers. One took us by surprise as it erupted high into the air right next to us. We avoided getting sprayed by the hot, smelly water. We have also seen elk, marmot, a coyote tending to the call of nature on the hard shoulder, deer, bison and bear twice! The first time was this morning and we weren't able to stop and take a photo. Stephen spent the rest of the day on a mission to spot another bear and to get a photo. We finally got a real close-up of a black bear as it crossed the road right in front of our car. We braked hard to avoid running over it.
Cycling through the Rockies was breathtaking, but after seeing the Tetons and Yellowstone cresting Current Creek Pass no longer tops our list of spectacular places (sorry, Colorado). Now it is the amazing view of the Tetons and wild life spotting in Yellowstone that take the number 1 and 2 spots, respectively.
We have taken lots of photos. We managed to return the hire car 5 minutes before our 24 hours were out. Tomorrow we will be planning our alternative, and shorter route through Idaho. That will give us more time to enjoy the ride down the coast to San Francisco. It will also give us the opportunity to visit Ken in Boise.
Monday 11 June - we are taking an extra rest day in Jackson Hole (we enjoy visiting ski resorts). We have spent time planning our route through Idaho and also getting local advice on road conditions and elevations.
Today we have seen Old Faithful erupt, as expected. We have seen hot springs that stink of sulphur and lots of other geysers. One took us by surprise as it erupted high into the air right next to us. We avoided getting sprayed by the hot, smelly water. We have also seen elk, marmot, a coyote tending to the call of nature on the hard shoulder, deer, bison and bear twice! The first time was this morning and we weren't able to stop and take a photo. Stephen spent the rest of the day on a mission to spot another bear and to get a photo. We finally got a real close-up of a black bear as it crossed the road right in front of our car. We braked hard to avoid running over it.
Cycling through the Rockies was breathtaking, but after seeing the Tetons and Yellowstone cresting Current Creek Pass no longer tops our list of spectacular places (sorry, Colorado). Now it is the amazing view of the Tetons and wild life spotting in Yellowstone that take the number 1 and 2 spots, respectively.
We have taken lots of photos. We managed to return the hire car 5 minutes before our 24 hours were out. Tomorrow we will be planning our alternative, and shorter route through Idaho. That will give us more time to enjoy the ride down the coast to San Francisco. It will also give us the opportunity to visit Ken in Boise.
Monday 11 June - we are taking an extra rest day in Jackson Hole (we enjoy visiting ski resorts). We have spent time planning our route through Idaho and also getting local advice on road conditions and elevations.
Saturday 9 June - Reaching the Tetons
Dubois to Jackson, Wyoming
75 miles
6 hours and 32 minutes in the saddle
31.1 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
Today we climbed over Togwotee Pass at 9,658 feet and crossed the continental divide yet another time. In spite of the Weather Channel promising strong tail wind, we continue to face head winds. Our faith in the Weather Channel has been severely dented.
Road works near the summit meant that we got a lift for nearly 4 miles through the worst of the road works. We still had to cycle a few miles on rough, unpaved roads. As we climbed towards the pass we had amazing views of Lava Mountain and Pinnacle Butte. There was a lot of snow on the ground following the 14 inch dump of snow on Wednesday.
A 17 mile downhill followed the climb up Togwotee. After about 5 miles down hill we caught our first glimpse of the majestic Teton mountains. It is difficult to describe the beauty of the Tetons. We spent most of the 17 mile descent ooh-ing and aah-ing as we got closer and closer to the mountains. Tetons seem to suddenly rise out of the ground and there are no foot hills to obstruct the views of the 13,000 feet jagged peaks. Our slow average speed reflects the number of times we stopped to take photos and to admire the view.
On our way to Jackson we stopped at the airport to pick up a hire car. Tomorrow we will drive around Yellowstone.
Today we have seen lots of deer, a moose in the distance and bison roaming the plains.
75 miles
6 hours and 32 minutes in the saddle
31.1 mph max speed
11.4 mph average speed
Today we climbed over Togwotee Pass at 9,658 feet and crossed the continental divide yet another time. In spite of the Weather Channel promising strong tail wind, we continue to face head winds. Our faith in the Weather Channel has been severely dented.
Road works near the summit meant that we got a lift for nearly 4 miles through the worst of the road works. We still had to cycle a few miles on rough, unpaved roads. As we climbed towards the pass we had amazing views of Lava Mountain and Pinnacle Butte. There was a lot of snow on the ground following the 14 inch dump of snow on Wednesday.
A 17 mile downhill followed the climb up Togwotee. After about 5 miles down hill we caught our first glimpse of the majestic Teton mountains. It is difficult to describe the beauty of the Tetons. We spent most of the 17 mile descent ooh-ing and aah-ing as we got closer and closer to the mountains. Tetons seem to suddenly rise out of the ground and there are no foot hills to obstruct the views of the 13,000 feet jagged peaks. Our slow average speed reflects the number of times we stopped to take photos and to admire the view.
On our way to Jackson we stopped at the airport to pick up a hire car. Tomorrow we will drive around Yellowstone.
Today we have seen lots of deer, a moose in the distance and bison roaming the plains.
Friday 8 June - back on the bike
Lander - Dubois
76 miles
6 hours and 34 minutes in the saddle
31.1 mph max speed
11.5 mph average speed
Clear, crisp sunshine came through the cracks in the curtain this morning. Unbelievable really, considering the rain came down in sheets yesterday and there were blizzards in the mountains. We met two cyclists who had to be rescued because they got stuck in the snow.
Lander was a great town for a couple of rest days, but we are both glad to be on our way again. Soon after leaving Lander we rode into Wind River Indian Reservation which is home to the Shoshone tribe. We had been told that it could be rough cycling through the Indian Reservation as there are problems with drugs and alcohol, but we did not encounter any issues. Although it is clear that many Indian families live in poverty.
Today we have cycled through what we think was a canyon carved by the Wind River. The colour of the landscape is changing to deep red rocks and it is very arid, almost desert like. Amazing red rock formations towered over us as we got closer to Dubois.
Wind River is an apt name for an area that is very windy. We have added to the name "Northerly Wind River" since the winds are blowing hard from the north down the valley. The last 20 miles to Dubois were hard work for exactly this reason, we often faced gusts of 35 mph.
When we got to Dubois we dropped off a note at one of the outdoor shops from Brian who owns the bike shop in Lander. Margo at the outdoor shop in Dubois gave us good advice on hotels and also restaurants. Tonight we are staying in a quaint log cabin and we have eaten lovely fresh food (including vegetables!) at the local restaurant.
76 miles
6 hours and 34 minutes in the saddle
31.1 mph max speed
11.5 mph average speed
Clear, crisp sunshine came through the cracks in the curtain this morning. Unbelievable really, considering the rain came down in sheets yesterday and there were blizzards in the mountains. We met two cyclists who had to be rescued because they got stuck in the snow.
Lander was a great town for a couple of rest days, but we are both glad to be on our way again. Soon after leaving Lander we rode into Wind River Indian Reservation which is home to the Shoshone tribe. We had been told that it could be rough cycling through the Indian Reservation as there are problems with drugs and alcohol, but we did not encounter any issues. Although it is clear that many Indian families live in poverty.
Today we have cycled through what we think was a canyon carved by the Wind River. The colour of the landscape is changing to deep red rocks and it is very arid, almost desert like. Amazing red rock formations towered over us as we got closer to Dubois.
Wind River is an apt name for an area that is very windy. We have added to the name "Northerly Wind River" since the winds are blowing hard from the north down the valley. The last 20 miles to Dubois were hard work for exactly this reason, we often faced gusts of 35 mph.
When we got to Dubois we dropped off a note at one of the outdoor shops from Brian who owns the bike shop in Lander. Margo at the outdoor shop in Dubois gave us good advice on hotels and also restaurants. Tonight we are staying in a quaint log cabin and we have eaten lovely fresh food (including vegetables!) at the local restaurant.
Thursday 7 June 2007
Wednesday/ Thursday 6/ 7 June - waiting for the storm to clear
Lander
No cycling at all for two whole days!
We chose to take a rest day yesterday because we were tired from the 126 miles we did on Tuesday. We were planning to ride to Dubois today, but overnight a cold front came in from the west dropping the temperatures to what feels like freezing and dumped snow on the mountains around us. There was just no way we were getting on the bikes to cross mountains with snow on, torrential rain and 30 mph headwinds would have made it a miserable bike ride.
Last night we met Clive, another English TranAm'er who is also hotelling it across the US. We went out for dinner together, it was nice to meet someone who is doing the trip in the same way that we are.
Lander is a really nice town. There are good restaurants here, nice shops, a supermarket that sells fresh fruit and vegetables and even has organic food! We are not feeling too bad about being stuck in Lander. We have also made new friends with the people who run the local bike shop.
No cycling at all for two whole days!
We chose to take a rest day yesterday because we were tired from the 126 miles we did on Tuesday. We were planning to ride to Dubois today, but overnight a cold front came in from the west dropping the temperatures to what feels like freezing and dumped snow on the mountains around us. There was just no way we were getting on the bikes to cross mountains with snow on, torrential rain and 30 mph headwinds would have made it a miserable bike ride.
Last night we met Clive, another English TranAm'er who is also hotelling it across the US. We went out for dinner together, it was nice to meet someone who is doing the trip in the same way that we are.
Lander is a really nice town. There are good restaurants here, nice shops, a supermarket that sells fresh fruit and vegetables and even has organic food! We are not feeling too bad about being stuck in Lander. We have also made new friends with the people who run the local bike shop.
Wednesday 6 June 2007
Tuesday 5 June - A character building bike ride
Rawlins - Lander
126 miles (a new record)
9 hours and 12 minutes in the saddle
34.7 mph max speed
13.6 mph average speed
Yes, we were mad to do 126 miles in a day. We are hurting in every muscle in our body, but the posterior is particularly sore. We left Rawlins at 6.45am, which is far too early according to Stephen since he has paid good money for the hotel room, and therefore needs to make full use of the facilities....oh it's great being married to an accountant!
We had calm winds as we left Rawlins to climb up towards the Great Divide Basin. The Great Divide Basin was the bottom of the sea 300 million years ago. The views across the basin were like looking across a moon landscape. It is a vast open, empty desert surrounded by mountains. The sand is orange and the hills are also orange. The road crosses the basin as straight as an arrow for about 20 miles. We had tail wind and for the first 60 miles of our ride we were averaging around 16 mph. As we reached the end of the basin we stopped at Grandma's Cafe. It was spooky. We were probably the first people who had stopped there for weeks. The smoke from cooking fat was so thick in the air it was like walking through pea soup fog. We didn't waste any time at Grandma's smoke house since the owners appeared to come from a very limited gene pool.
Jeffrey City was our lunch stop and also potential overnight stop. Jeffrey City is a ghost town. It was originally founded on a uranium strike in the 80s, but has since been deserted. There are about 15 people still living in the town and most of the buildings are boarded up. It is a strange place. We stopped for lunch under the picnic shelter that Rotary had built. It was probably a nice place to have a picnic in the 80s, but now it is populated by a million mosquitoes and some tumble weed that has found its final resting place. We took one look at the Top Hat Motel and decided that we'd be able to ride to Lander. We didn't leave Jeffrey City before we had bought the last 4 bottles of water in the only shop that was not boarded up.
The last 60 miles to Lander were incredibly tough because we were tired and also because we had head wind. A storm started brewing as we reached Sweetwater Junction about 40 miles from Lander. Just as we were picking up speed a cyclist travelling in the opposite direction stopped and waved to us. Grudgingly we pulled over and crossed to the other side of the road. We exchanged the usual tidbits of information about riding conditions, how far we had come etc. As we were talking lightning was flashing and thunder rumbling around us. We looked anxiously towards the skies and said good-bye to our fellow Trans-Am'er. Fortunately we had the benefit of a five mile descent to help us race away from the storms. The last 40 miles of our ride we spent as much time looking at black storm clouds as looking at the road. Thankfully we reached Lander without any further weather incidents.
We are very glad to be in a comfortable motel and are looking forward to a well deserved rest day in Lander.
126 miles (a new record)
9 hours and 12 minutes in the saddle
34.7 mph max speed
13.6 mph average speed
Yes, we were mad to do 126 miles in a day. We are hurting in every muscle in our body, but the posterior is particularly sore. We left Rawlins at 6.45am, which is far too early according to Stephen since he has paid good money for the hotel room, and therefore needs to make full use of the facilities....oh it's great being married to an accountant!
We had calm winds as we left Rawlins to climb up towards the Great Divide Basin. The Great Divide Basin was the bottom of the sea 300 million years ago. The views across the basin were like looking across a moon landscape. It is a vast open, empty desert surrounded by mountains. The sand is orange and the hills are also orange. The road crosses the basin as straight as an arrow for about 20 miles. We had tail wind and for the first 60 miles of our ride we were averaging around 16 mph. As we reached the end of the basin we stopped at Grandma's Cafe. It was spooky. We were probably the first people who had stopped there for weeks. The smoke from cooking fat was so thick in the air it was like walking through pea soup fog. We didn't waste any time at Grandma's smoke house since the owners appeared to come from a very limited gene pool.
Jeffrey City was our lunch stop and also potential overnight stop. Jeffrey City is a ghost town. It was originally founded on a uranium strike in the 80s, but has since been deserted. There are about 15 people still living in the town and most of the buildings are boarded up. It is a strange place. We stopped for lunch under the picnic shelter that Rotary had built. It was probably a nice place to have a picnic in the 80s, but now it is populated by a million mosquitoes and some tumble weed that has found its final resting place. We took one look at the Top Hat Motel and decided that we'd be able to ride to Lander. We didn't leave Jeffrey City before we had bought the last 4 bottles of water in the only shop that was not boarded up.
The last 60 miles to Lander were incredibly tough because we were tired and also because we had head wind. A storm started brewing as we reached Sweetwater Junction about 40 miles from Lander. Just as we were picking up speed a cyclist travelling in the opposite direction stopped and waved to us. Grudgingly we pulled over and crossed to the other side of the road. We exchanged the usual tidbits of information about riding conditions, how far we had come etc. As we were talking lightning was flashing and thunder rumbling around us. We looked anxiously towards the skies and said good-bye to our fellow Trans-Am'er. Fortunately we had the benefit of a five mile descent to help us race away from the storms. The last 40 miles of our ride we spent as much time looking at black storm clouds as looking at the road. Thankfully we reached Lander without any further weather incidents.
We are very glad to be in a comfortable motel and are looking forward to a well deserved rest day in Lander.
Monday 4 June 2007
Monday 4 June - Preparing for another big ride
Saratoga - Rawlins
43 fast miles
2 hours and 53 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
14.7 mph average speed
We left early this morning to avoid the winds that increase through the day and we arrived in Rawlins at 9.30am.
We have had another day of mostly downhill and today the roads have been beautifully smooth. We like Wyoming roads, especially after some of the rough and bumpy roads in Colorado. We have had a short ride today in anticipation of a long ride tomorrow. Wyoming is sparsely populated and without a tent we don't have many choices for places to stay. Tomorrow we may have to do another 120 miles to find a bed for the night. We said we were mad last time we did 120 miles and we are feeling a bit apprehensive about doing it again. This time we are well prepared: we have bought a loaf of bread, a large jar of Nutella and some Vaseline!
Today we met another 3 TransAm'er riding eastwards. Two of them had been riding for 6 months, they had started in San Diego riding north to Canada, before heading south and east. They gave us some good advice on cycling from Oregon to California. Oh, we haven't mentioned that we think we have enough time to ride the Pacific highway down to San Francisco. We have made good progress throughout the trip and without too many rest days we should have a couple of weeks to spare once we hit Oregon.
To date we have cycled for 42 days and we have covered 2677 miles. We are about half way to San Francisco and have completed about 2/3 of the TransAm. Our average distance per day is 64 miles. We have suffered no punctures, and no mechanical problems apart from Mette's rear wheel preferring to be oval rather than round. Physically we are in good shape and probably in a lot better shape than what we were 42 days ago. We have eaten our lifetime fill of hamburgers and we will soon reach our burrito and enchilada limit. We keep cycling past signs saying "Eat Beef" and that's often the only option we have.
Every state we have cycled through has been special and unique in its own way and we have enjoyed every day of our trip so far, apart from possibly the last 10 miles to Canon City. It is hard to distinguish between the highlights, but if we had to choose, then reaching Currant Creek Pass in Colorado was eyewateringly beautiful. We both agree the mountains are special.
43 fast miles
2 hours and 53 minutes in the saddle
30.8 mph max speed
14.7 mph average speed
We left early this morning to avoid the winds that increase through the day and we arrived in Rawlins at 9.30am.
We have had another day of mostly downhill and today the roads have been beautifully smooth. We like Wyoming roads, especially after some of the rough and bumpy roads in Colorado. We have had a short ride today in anticipation of a long ride tomorrow. Wyoming is sparsely populated and without a tent we don't have many choices for places to stay. Tomorrow we may have to do another 120 miles to find a bed for the night. We said we were mad last time we did 120 miles and we are feeling a bit apprehensive about doing it again. This time we are well prepared: we have bought a loaf of bread, a large jar of Nutella and some Vaseline!
Today we met another 3 TransAm'er riding eastwards. Two of them had been riding for 6 months, they had started in San Diego riding north to Canada, before heading south and east. They gave us some good advice on cycling from Oregon to California. Oh, we haven't mentioned that we think we have enough time to ride the Pacific highway down to San Francisco. We have made good progress throughout the trip and without too many rest days we should have a couple of weeks to spare once we hit Oregon.
To date we have cycled for 42 days and we have covered 2677 miles. We are about half way to San Francisco and have completed about 2/3 of the TransAm. Our average distance per day is 64 miles. We have suffered no punctures, and no mechanical problems apart from Mette's rear wheel preferring to be oval rather than round. Physically we are in good shape and probably in a lot better shape than what we were 42 days ago. We have eaten our lifetime fill of hamburgers and we will soon reach our burrito and enchilada limit. We keep cycling past signs saying "Eat Beef" and that's often the only option we have.
Every state we have cycled through has been special and unique in its own way and we have enjoyed every day of our trip so far, apart from possibly the last 10 miles to Canon City. It is hard to distinguish between the highlights, but if we had to choose, then reaching Currant Creek Pass in Colorado was eyewateringly beautiful. We both agree the mountains are special.
Sunday 3 June - Riding the high plains of Wyoming
Walden - Saratoga, Wyoming
69 miles
5 hours and 37 minutes in the saddle
27 mph max speed
12.1 mph average speed
We entered Wyoming after 22 miles. The scenery continues to be beautiful, with snow capped mountains visible no matter where you look. The mornings are crisp and clear and cold, we have been wearing all our clothes to stay warm. The weather is changeable here, and thunderstorms build in the afternoon over the mountain ranges. Storms are great to watch from a safe distance. Thankfully the storms always seem to be gathering to the south.
We have met another TransAm'er today and had a brief chat before we headed in opposite directions. We have yet again suffered strong headwinds. We think we are a bit unlucky because the prevailing winds in this area are westerlies and we have had northerly winds ever since we turned north several days ago.
Before we left Walden one of the locals offered us some riding advice. He asked us if we had ever been to Wyoming before, which we said we hadn't. He then said with a grim look on his face that we would soon see what it was like. I asked him if it would be a bit like the flat Kansas plains, to which he responded that he thought Kansas had some hills. We suspect he had never travelled outside Colorado.
69 miles
5 hours and 37 minutes in the saddle
27 mph max speed
12.1 mph average speed
We entered Wyoming after 22 miles. The scenery continues to be beautiful, with snow capped mountains visible no matter where you look. The mornings are crisp and clear and cold, we have been wearing all our clothes to stay warm. The weather is changeable here, and thunderstorms build in the afternoon over the mountain ranges. Storms are great to watch from a safe distance. Thankfully the storms always seem to be gathering to the south.
We have met another TransAm'er today and had a brief chat before we headed in opposite directions. We have yet again suffered strong headwinds. We think we are a bit unlucky because the prevailing winds in this area are westerlies and we have had northerly winds ever since we turned north several days ago.
Before we left Walden one of the locals offered us some riding advice. He asked us if we had ever been to Wyoming before, which we said we hadn't. He then said with a grim look on his face that we would soon see what it was like. I asked him if it would be a bit like the flat Kansas plains, to which he responded that he thought Kansas had some hills. We suspect he had never travelled outside Colorado.
Saturday 2 June - See no moose, hear many moose
Kremmling - Walden
62 miles
5 hours and 18 minutes in the saddle
29.2 mph max speed
11.7 mph average speed
Today we crossed the continental divide for the second time. This is the watershed where the water drains either to the Pacific or the Atlantic. Our first crossing was at Hoosier Pass. We will cross the continental divide many more times as we head north through Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. Today we crossed Muddy Pass at 8,772 feet elevation. We have finally acclimatised to the higher altitude and we had no trouble climbing.
Our ride today has taken us along the wide Platte River Valley, with majestic snow capped peaks on either side.
Tonight we are staying at the flash Antler's Inn, in Colorado's moose viewing capital. Antlers were everywhere and there were plenty of hunting trophies staring at us from the walls. Some of the 2000 moose in the area are keeping us awake with their strange throaty calls.
62 miles
5 hours and 18 minutes in the saddle
29.2 mph max speed
11.7 mph average speed
Today we crossed the continental divide for the second time. This is the watershed where the water drains either to the Pacific or the Atlantic. Our first crossing was at Hoosier Pass. We will cross the continental divide many more times as we head north through Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. Today we crossed Muddy Pass at 8,772 feet elevation. We have finally acclimatised to the higher altitude and we had no trouble climbing.
Our ride today has taken us along the wide Platte River Valley, with majestic snow capped peaks on either side.
Tonight we are staying at the flash Antler's Inn, in Colorado's moose viewing capital. Antlers were everywhere and there were plenty of hunting trophies staring at us from the walls. Some of the 2000 moose in the area are keeping us awake with their strange throaty calls.
Friday 1 June - Back on the road again with a straight wheel
Breckenridge - Kremmling
55 miles
4 hours and 12 minutes in the saddle
29.3 mph max speed
13.1 mph average speed
We finally left Breckenridge at 1pm after having Mette's back wheel re-built by the excellent mechanic at Mountain Sports Outlet in Silverthorn. We were both frustrated at being stuck in Breckenridge for longer than planned, but it was a nice place to be stuck. However, we were still determined to make good miles today. First 25 miles of our ride took us on a lovely bike path snaking through the forest from Breck to Silverthorn. There were millions of racing bikers out training as this forms part of the 40 mile paved bike path from Breck to Vail. It is so nice here we had a brief look in the real estate agent's window to see if we can buy a house here in the future!
Just outside Silverthorne we met Steve who is doing the TransAm west to east on a recumbent. He was very keen to have a chat, so we shared stories and advice on the hard shoulder as heavy traffic thundered past.
Our ride today has had a downhill bias, we dropped over 2000 feet in elevation and we feel much better for it. We continue to be awed by the mountains. For most of the last 30 miles we had a strong headwind.
55 miles
4 hours and 12 minutes in the saddle
29.3 mph max speed
13.1 mph average speed
We finally left Breckenridge at 1pm after having Mette's back wheel re-built by the excellent mechanic at Mountain Sports Outlet in Silverthorn. We were both frustrated at being stuck in Breckenridge for longer than planned, but it was a nice place to be stuck. However, we were still determined to make good miles today. First 25 miles of our ride took us on a lovely bike path snaking through the forest from Breck to Silverthorn. There were millions of racing bikers out training as this forms part of the 40 mile paved bike path from Breck to Vail. It is so nice here we had a brief look in the real estate agent's window to see if we can buy a house here in the future!
Just outside Silverthorne we met Steve who is doing the TransAm west to east on a recumbent. He was very keen to have a chat, so we shared stories and advice on the hard shoulder as heavy traffic thundered past.
Our ride today has had a downhill bias, we dropped over 2000 feet in elevation and we feel much better for it. We continue to be awed by the mountains. For most of the last 30 miles we had a strong headwind.
Thursday 31 May - Hoosier Pass
Fairplay - Breckenridge
24.5 miles (felt like at least 100 miles)
2 hours 52 minutes in the saddle
29.8 mph max speed
8.5 mph average speed (new record low)
Today we have suffered the altitude and the climb over Hoosier Pass at 11,542 feet became a real slog. Scenery has been stunning. Mette has struggled with feeling lightheaded and shortness of breath, which are common symptoms of altitude sickness. Mette's severely buckled back wheel made the descent very interesting as she wobbled into Breckenridge!
Breckenridge is a great spot. It is outdoor heaven that attracts skiers in the winter to the vast slopes and bikers and hikers in the summer. We feel at home here, shame that the prices require a regular, steady income. We can't afford to stay here for long.
We spent all afternoon chasing around Breckenridge's many bike shops trying to fix Mette's rear wheel. We finally found a solution at a bike shop in Silverthorne, where the mechanic offered to re-build the wheel. This involves replacing all the spokes, it is a big and quite expensive job, but the best option for us. Stephen has told Mette not to fall off her bike again, as we can't afford it :)
Hopefully we will be back on the road again tomorrow. We will be descending from here on, so altitude sickness should disappear.
Today we were overtaken by Jesse who is also doing TransAm east to west. He is the first person to overtake us. Oh well. His bike looks like a weird cross between a BMX and a touring bike with huge handle bars and a saddle that has two independently moving buttock pads. Jesse was very friendly. He even waited for us to reach the Hoosier summit, so we could get a group photo.
24.5 miles (felt like at least 100 miles)
2 hours 52 minutes in the saddle
29.8 mph max speed
8.5 mph average speed (new record low)
Today we have suffered the altitude and the climb over Hoosier Pass at 11,542 feet became a real slog. Scenery has been stunning. Mette has struggled with feeling lightheaded and shortness of breath, which are common symptoms of altitude sickness. Mette's severely buckled back wheel made the descent very interesting as she wobbled into Breckenridge!
Breckenridge is a great spot. It is outdoor heaven that attracts skiers in the winter to the vast slopes and bikers and hikers in the summer. We feel at home here, shame that the prices require a regular, steady income. We can't afford to stay here for long.
We spent all afternoon chasing around Breckenridge's many bike shops trying to fix Mette's rear wheel. We finally found a solution at a bike shop in Silverthorne, where the mechanic offered to re-build the wheel. This involves replacing all the spokes, it is a big and quite expensive job, but the best option for us. Stephen has told Mette not to fall off her bike again, as we can't afford it :)
Hopefully we will be back on the road again tomorrow. We will be descending from here on, so altitude sickness should disappear.
Today we were overtaken by Jesse who is also doing TransAm east to west. He is the first person to overtake us. Oh well. His bike looks like a weird cross between a BMX and a touring bike with huge handle bars and a saddle that has two independently moving buttock pads. Jesse was very friendly. He even waited for us to reach the Hoosier summit, so we could get a group photo.
Wednesday 30 May - Climbing the Rockies
Canon City - Fairplay
79 miles uphill
8 hours and 21 minutes in the saddle
37.6 mph max speed (ok, it wasn't all uphill)
9.3 mph average speed (mostly it was uphill, our second slowest day)
Today we have gained 6,000' elevation and it has been a killer of a bike ride. We were expecting a tough ride, but we hadn't counted on the gale force head winds we had for the last 50 miles. Pure punishment. In spite of how tough this day has been, it has also been an enjoyable ride because the scenery has been spectacular.
When we crested Currant Creek Pass at 9,404' we had the most stunning views across snow capped peaks in the Rockies. We appreciate the mountains so much after having spent almost a week cycling across the flat plains of Kansas and eastern Colorado. We stopped for lunch in Guffey, after 30 miles of cycling. We had the best lunch to date at Rita's cafe, a haven of health food where burgers are not on the menu. We also met Bill, the owner of the Guffey Garage. Bill is a real wild west character. In his garage resides the mayor of Guffey, a big black cat called Monster. There are no cars in Guffey Garage because it is stuffed full of strange things like cow skulls wearing sun glasses. Outside the garage is Bill's rat rod (like a hot rod), which he has built himself. It is a 1937 rusty old wreck, but with a modern v8 engine and automatic gearbox. We tried to convince Bill to give us a lift to the top of the mountain.
After almost 50 more miles we finally reached Fairplay at 6.30pm and we are staying at the historic Hand's Hotel which has beautiful rooms. This evening we went to the local, very good Italian restaurant (we think there is some Breckenridge effect in Fairplay) and had a delicious meal. We started the meal by having a cocktail each, to celebrate the tough ride. Stephen downed his and promptly felt the full kick of the alcohol which is about 3 times as strong at 9,500' elevation. Both of us have suffered the altitude, but hope we will acclimatise soon. We are feeling light headed and a little nauseous, it is very similar to a hang over.
79 miles uphill
8 hours and 21 minutes in the saddle
37.6 mph max speed (ok, it wasn't all uphill)
9.3 mph average speed (mostly it was uphill, our second slowest day)
Today we have gained 6,000' elevation and it has been a killer of a bike ride. We were expecting a tough ride, but we hadn't counted on the gale force head winds we had for the last 50 miles. Pure punishment. In spite of how tough this day has been, it has also been an enjoyable ride because the scenery has been spectacular.
When we crested Currant Creek Pass at 9,404' we had the most stunning views across snow capped peaks in the Rockies. We appreciate the mountains so much after having spent almost a week cycling across the flat plains of Kansas and eastern Colorado. We stopped for lunch in Guffey, after 30 miles of cycling. We had the best lunch to date at Rita's cafe, a haven of health food where burgers are not on the menu. We also met Bill, the owner of the Guffey Garage. Bill is a real wild west character. In his garage resides the mayor of Guffey, a big black cat called Monster. There are no cars in Guffey Garage because it is stuffed full of strange things like cow skulls wearing sun glasses. Outside the garage is Bill's rat rod (like a hot rod), which he has built himself. It is a 1937 rusty old wreck, but with a modern v8 engine and automatic gearbox. We tried to convince Bill to give us a lift to the top of the mountain.
After almost 50 more miles we finally reached Fairplay at 6.30pm and we are staying at the historic Hand's Hotel which has beautiful rooms. This evening we went to the local, very good Italian restaurant (we think there is some Breckenridge effect in Fairplay) and had a delicious meal. We started the meal by having a cocktail each, to celebrate the tough ride. Stephen downed his and promptly felt the full kick of the alcohol which is about 3 times as strong at 9,500' elevation. Both of us have suffered the altitude, but hope we will acclimatise soon. We are feeling light headed and a little nauseous, it is very similar to a hang over.
Tuesday 29 May - A really bad day
Pueblo - Canon City (pronounced canyon City)
57 miles
4 hours and 38 minutes in the saddle
34.3 mph max speed
12.1 mph average speed
Today we had a short ride in preparation for the long climb up into the Rockies tomorrow. We are staying in Canon City which is a bit of a dump. The road out of Pueblo offered pleasant riding, but things got a bit ugly as we got closer to Canon City. The last 10 miles before Canon City were probably the worst we have had so far on the trip (even worse than nasty Kentucky dogs). Mette came off her bike, narrowly avoiding crashing into Stephen and grazed her knee and got some very stylish black and blue bruises on her thigh. It probably looked spectacular as I fell sideways at hardly any speed. The back wheel got buckled, yet again. That is 3rd time unlucky for that wheel. A little later a local driver decided to vent his anger on us. This is the first time in 2,300 miles that we have experienced road rage. A little later a metre long snake decided it wanted to cross the road in front of us. The upside was that Stephen finally managed to get the photo of a live snake that he has been trying to get for the last 1,500 miles. We have seen many snakes, most of them road kill and the ones that have been alive we have sped past. Given the snake was determined to cross the road we assume it is now road kill.
We went out for a very nice Chinese dinner and we got the obligatory fortune cookies, which had some very appropriate messages:
There is more to balance than falling over (yes, Mette got that one!)
The harder the fall, the higher the bounce - not sure that really makes sense
57 miles
4 hours and 38 minutes in the saddle
34.3 mph max speed
12.1 mph average speed
Today we had a short ride in preparation for the long climb up into the Rockies tomorrow. We are staying in Canon City which is a bit of a dump. The road out of Pueblo offered pleasant riding, but things got a bit ugly as we got closer to Canon City. The last 10 miles before Canon City were probably the worst we have had so far on the trip (even worse than nasty Kentucky dogs). Mette came off her bike, narrowly avoiding crashing into Stephen and grazed her knee and got some very stylish black and blue bruises on her thigh. It probably looked spectacular as I fell sideways at hardly any speed. The back wheel got buckled, yet again. That is 3rd time unlucky for that wheel. A little later a local driver decided to vent his anger on us. This is the first time in 2,300 miles that we have experienced road rage. A little later a metre long snake decided it wanted to cross the road in front of us. The upside was that Stephen finally managed to get the photo of a live snake that he has been trying to get for the last 1,500 miles. We have seen many snakes, most of them road kill and the ones that have been alive we have sped past. Given the snake was determined to cross the road we assume it is now road kill.
We went out for a very nice Chinese dinner and we got the obligatory fortune cookies, which had some very appropriate messages:
There is more to balance than falling over (yes, Mette got that one!)
The harder the fall, the higher the bounce - not sure that really makes sense
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